will teem with shoppers attending one of France’ s best markets. We will be amongst them, shopping for picnic supplies.
After rock caverns and stone buildings, I long for the freshness of outdoor greenery. On a bluff high above the Dordogne River, the gardens at Marqueyssac are the ideal counterpoint. We could tour the 18th century chateau but the garden paths beckon. Thousands upon thousands of boxwoods were planted in the 19th century along winding paths to give a fanciful, labyrinthine effect. The bushes are hand pruned into bulbous shapes and swirling patterns- it is an extravaganza of green! Wandering further, I sniff the fragrance of rosemary and lavender before I see the sizable herb gardens. Along sinuous paths in the forest of oaks, cypress, pine, and lime trees are delightful surprises of sculptures, stone huts, waterfalls, or hidden benches. We have no trouble finding a secluded spot for a picnic while appreciating the plants, the views, and the occasional peacock wandering by. At the end of the walk is the Belvedere lookout, with its expansive view of the river, rolling vineyards, far off chateaux and the cliff hugging ochre houses of a town below.
It’ s possible a distant Cro- Magnon relative contemplated this view before he descended into the valley in search of another cave to paint in. Of course, no mammoths or wooly rhinoceros roam the valley floor today, but we know from those old paintings that long ago, they most assuredly did. ■
If you go
For photos of the cave paintings and information: www. grottederouffignac. fr www. sarlat-tourisme. com
The gardens at Marqueyssac are a National Historic Monument. www. marqueyssac. com
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