France
of navigable waterways have barely changed over the centuries. Freight transport only ended here twenty odd years ago and the canal has been devoted to pleasure cruising ever since. The Anjodi herself spans both eras, having started life as a grain-carrying barge between Paris and Amsterdam. Polished though she now is, a grain of grit remains, and her authenticity reflects the Canal itself.
The barging adventure begins with an overnight in Montpellier, the gateway to the Canal du Midi. To get into the spirit, we kayak along the River Lez past an old mill and tree-lined banks. It is hard to believe we are in the heart of metropolitan Montpellier. Equally surprising is the way that the city’ s Mediterranean spirit and devotion to the good life is trumped by its contemporary verve. Montpellier makes modern urban planning sexy. Inspired by Greek Classicism, the central neoclassical neighbourhood is monumental, monolithic and Mussolini-esque in its ambitions. But, with its sweeping esplanades, stirring fountains and nude sculptures, this district also becomes an inviting, meditative space.
Montpellier’ s modernism plays into the French love for `grands projets’ and statement architecture. Bordered by landscaped gardens and the River Lez, the new, Jean Nouveldesigned City Hall makes its mark. The bold, blue-tinted façade, mixing stainless steel and solar panels, creates stunning plays of light. Traditionalists may find it soulless, and prefer the pedestrianised Old Town, with its pavement cafes, cosy wine bars and arty atmosphere. Musée Fabre, the Museum of Fine Arts, is classic Montpellier, a contemporary take on the past, including Impressionist masters such as Frederic Bazille, more than a match for his friendly rival, Renoir. Before leaving, we jump on one of the new trams designed by Christian Lacroix, who studied in Montpellier. The theatrical trams are a playful tribute to the Mediterranean sun and sea, and a reminder that the beaches are only 11 kilometres away, with a new cycle path linking the city to the shore. Unsurprisingly, this thought-provoking, forward-looking metropolis is one of the fastestgrowing cities in France.
We arrive in Le Somail, framed by a charming stone-arched bridge, to see Anjodi moored in one of the prettiest spots on the Canal du Midi. A quaint floating `epicerie’ grocery barge is a fixture alongside us but the feasting onboard Anjodi means that we never stray. Our arrival coincides with sundowners presented by Captain Julian, who doubles as the resident wine expert. Pastis is rejected in favour of local Coteaux de Languedoc wines and southern nibbles such as pissaladiere, onion tart with anchovies, juicy Lucques olives, paté de champagne, piquant roast goat’ s cheese, and tapenade, olive paste on croutons. Julian informs us that the Languedoc is the oldest wine-producing region in France, flourishing even in Phoenician times. A guided winetasting segues into a gourmet dinner prepared by Lauren, the
18 | EuroTravel