France
of navigable waterways have barely changed over the centuries . Freight transport only ended here twenty odd years ago and the canal has been devoted to pleasure cruising ever since . The Anjodi herself spans both eras , having started life as a grain-carrying barge between Paris and Amsterdam . Polished though she now is , a grain of grit remains , and her authenticity reflects the Canal itself .
The barging adventure begins with an overnight in Montpellier , the gateway to the Canal du Midi . To get into the spirit , we kayak along the River Lez past an old mill and tree-lined banks . It is hard to believe we are in the heart of metropolitan Montpellier . Equally surprising is the way that the city ’ s Mediterranean spirit and devotion to the good life is trumped by its contemporary verve . Montpellier makes modern urban planning sexy . Inspired by Greek Classicism , the central neoclassical neighbourhood is monumental , monolithic and Mussolini-esque in its ambitions . But , with its sweeping esplanades , stirring fountains and nude sculptures , this district also becomes an inviting , meditative space .
Montpellier ’ s modernism plays into the French love for `grands projets ’ and statement architecture . Bordered by landscaped gardens and the River Lez , the new , Jean Nouveldesigned City Hall makes its mark . The bold , blue-tinted façade , mixing stainless steel and solar panels , creates stunning plays of light . Traditionalists may find it soulless , and prefer the pedestrianised Old Town , with its pavement cafes , cosy wine bars and arty atmosphere . Musée Fabre , the Museum of Fine Arts , is classic Montpellier , a contemporary take on the past , including Impressionist masters such as Frederic Bazille , more than a match for his friendly rival , Renoir . Before leaving , we jump on one of the new trams designed by Christian Lacroix , who studied in Montpellier . The theatrical trams are a playful tribute to the Mediterranean sun and sea , and a reminder that the beaches are only 11 kilometres away , with a new cycle path linking the city to the shore . Unsurprisingly , this thought-provoking , forward-looking metropolis is one of the fastestgrowing cities in France .
We arrive in Le Somail , framed by a charming stone-arched bridge , to see Anjodi moored in one of the prettiest spots on the Canal du Midi . A quaint floating `epicerie ’ grocery barge is a fixture alongside us but the feasting onboard Anjodi means that we never stray . Our arrival coincides with sundowners presented by Captain Julian , who doubles as the resident wine expert . Pastis is rejected in favour of local Coteaux de Languedoc wines and southern nibbles such as pissaladiere , onion tart with anchovies , juicy Lucques olives , paté de champagne , piquant roast goat ’ s cheese , and tapenade , olive paste on croutons . Julian informs us that the Languedoc is the oldest wine-producing region in France , flourishing even in Phoenician times . A guided winetasting segues into a gourmet dinner prepared by Lauren , the
18 | EuroTravel