Eufora Magazine January - March 2017 | Page 19

.“ The control of these free radicals will deliver excellent lightening with no negatives in fiber damage”
C O LOR

CHEMIST CORNER

By James Grundy Eufora Director of R & D
FREE RADICALS … BREAKING BONDS … WHAT’ S IT ALL ABOUT?
A favorite new mantra for today’ s salon professionals seems to be the“ B” word. I ' m talking about“ Bonds”. Break bonds, Repair bonds, Multiply bonds. Which“ Plex” is best to beat the bond dilemma? So many new complexes enter the market each month! What’ s a stylist to do?
All of these new“ Plex” type products have one thing in common; they promise to“ repair” or“ multiply” bonds that are broken or damaged during a chemical service, referring of course to disulfide bonds. So, what’ s all the fuss about disulfide bonds, really?
Think about those traditional“ perms”! Permanent waving systems have been around for decades, and generally consist of two parts. The first part contains a processing solution, or“ reducing agent”, which breaks the disulfide bonds to allow reshaping of the hair. The second part is the“ neutralizer” which reforms the disulfide bonds into the shape you desire. In this perm process, the“ neutralizer” actually acts as a type of bond builder or multiplier.
What is this magic ingredient that“ builds bonds” in neutralizers? Surprise, it is simple Hydrogen Peroxide( aka Developer)! Connecting the dots, developer is also used in most color services, so why the need to add a bond multiplier or“ complex” to your service if the developer is already rebuilding bonds?
By nature of the chemical reaction that takes place during a chemical service the hair is being damaged, or bonds broken, and then bonds are being repaired. So, what is the true villain at hand? The answer: Free Radicals!
In developing the Eufora COLOR ELIXIR™ system, we looked to address the root of the problem, targeting the free radicals BEFORE damage occurs instead of repairing damage after. COLOR ELIXIR™ fights damaging free radicals where it’ s most important, in the color bowl, by using NAOPLEX™ Technology. This proprietary complex offers unparalleled protection and supports the integrity of the hair.
HOW?
COLOR ELIXIR™ PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE slows oxidation, and stops free radicals from forming, allowing for better color penetration and better lightening without sacrificing the hair fiber integrity. With free radicals under arrest, what other hair villains did we target? Probably the biggest unavoidable challenge we identified is aggressive pH. Chemical services use high pH( typically 9.5 – 10.5) to lift the cuticle. This process opens the hair fiber up to extreme damage, especially when it is exposed for extended periods of time. This is why the PROFESSIONAL SEALER is an essential component of the COLOR ELIXIR™ system. COLOR ELIXIR™ PROFESSIONAL SEALER helps to restore the pH balance and repair the hair once the chemical service is complete. With all that said, what does that really mean to you the stylist?
Well let me ask you this, would you rather repair broken bonds... or prefer they NEVER break in the first place?
Prevention is the best medicine!
.“ The control of these free radicals will deliver excellent lightening with no negatives in fiber damage”
” J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 205 – 215( March / April 2009).