Estate Living Magazine Smart Moves - Issue 38 February 2019 | Page 66

G O O D
L I F E
longer, having swopped the comforts of MS Midnatsol for 90 days
on a land of fire and ice, their world condensed into a neat three
metre by three metre cube of luggage.
Working for the Norwegian Polar Institute, they will spend the
next three months studying one of the world’s keystone species,
Antarctic krill, which is the main source of food for many marine
animals, including penguins and whales.
had spent much of the journey to the Frozen Continent preparing
for these landings.
All passengers aboard Midnatsol are equipped with a crimson wind-
and waterproof parka, which we got to keep after the cruise, and
special rubber boots that were washed and disinfected after each
landing. And before we could go ashore we had to vacuum all our
outerwear to ensure that nothing, not even a stray hair, was left
behind.
Life was about to become very simple for them. No running water,
no buffet lunches, no internet – only the day-to-day business of their
immediate surrounds, extreme isolation, extreme weather, and the
surprises that Antarctica would inevitably deliver.
They were quite happy to turn their backs on the ship and on
civilisation, and spend their ‘summer holiday’ at the end of the earth.
Having spent a week in Antarctica, I completely understand why.
Hurtigruten is represented in South Africa by Development
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Only 100 people are allowed on shore at any one time, so the ship’s
passengers are divided into expedition groups whimsically named
after penguins, whales, seals and albatrosses. Each group has at
least an hour and a half on land to explore.
Once ashore we had to ‘tread lightly’ and carefully stay on the
special ice highways that have been carved out by the expedition
team. And, on departure, any holes left in the snow are filled so that
the resident penguins can safely use the highways without falling
into a boot-shaped snow divot.
In our preparatory onboard lectures, we had been told to stay at
least five metres away from the penguins at all times but within
minutes on land, I realised that was going to be well nigh impossible.
Penguins are a curious lot by nature, and would think nothing of
waddling up to the crimson-clad giants for a closer look, or stopping
dead in the midst of a Penguin Highway causing a human traffic jam
as we craned impossibly to take the Instagram shot of the day.
Surprisingly, the forbidding landscapes of Antarctica are home to an
astounding display of life. Deception Island is home to one of the
world’s largest Chinstrap Penguin colonies, an incredible array of
moss and lichen species cling to its volcanic rocks, and a variety of
seabird species nest there. And that’s not to mention the lazy seals
that look like giant silver rocks against the snow.
More than a holiday
While we were excited to spend a week in Antarctica, two
Norwegian scientists, Andy Lowther and Heide Ahonan, got to stay
10 Antarctica Travel Tips
1. Wear layers: about 3–4 layers will be enough.
2. You don’t need to bring boots. Instead, bring comfortable
shoes for on board.
3. Make sure you have waterproof pants, thermal socks,
waterproof gloves and a beanie.
4. Bring a waterproof bag you can keep on your back.
5. Bring a good camera with a good lens, but take some time
to live in the moment.
6. If you get seasick, eat only dry food and green apples.
7. Wear suntan lotion and lip balm with a high SPF.
8. Push your boundaries: do the excursions – kayaking,
camping, snowshoeing.
9. Bring a costume for the polar plunge and on-board Jacuzzi.
10. Read South! The Story of Shackleton’s Last Expedition or
watch the movie before you go.
Natalia Rosa