power source – steam – in the production of coffee to fuel its
secondary power source – humans. The first steam-powered
coffee machines were made in the 19 th century with the
emphasis not on quality but on speed of delivery – hence the
name ‘espresso’. Not only did these machines produce pretty
vile coffee – but the factory workers drank it anyhow – they
were also dangerous, and liable to explode if not handled with
care. On the plus side, they could produce up to 1,000 cups of
coffee an hour, thus increasing production efficiency in the
factories as the caffeine-fuelled workers scuttled around in
an ADHD-type flurry, as compared with the semi-drunken
stupor that had, until then, been the norm.
Over the next few decades there were some improvements, the ‘perfection’ of instant coffee – that strange hot brown
the most notable of which was a release valve that slightly liquid that had been invented during the First World War
decreased the risk of the machine operator dying in a steam to anaesthetise the troops against the horrors of trench
explosion while preparing the early morning coffee to fuel warfare. And, yes, also the pointless deaths of millions of
the factory workers. But the resultant brew was still vile – people, destruction of some of the best art and architecture
mostly because it was not possible to produce a pressure of of Europe, and the displacement of whole communities. So,
more than about two bars so the coffee was made with super- maybe the delay of the invention of the espresso machine is
heated steam, which gave it a classic burnt taste that could not the very worst aspect of World War Two, but it’s up there.
almost be disguised by the addition of copious quantities of
milk and sugar.
Putting on the pressure
Coffee is heaven
And the rest is history. Gaggia produced the first home-use
espresso machine in 1952. It was a single-lever machine that
But then, in the late 1930s, the Milanese bartender and coffee was as much a work of art as was the coffee it produced. And,
aficionado Achille Gaggia patented the invention that was to being hand-made, it was pretty darn pricey. So it was only in
change forever the way coffee was made – and it coincided 1977, when the Baby Gaggia hit the shelves as the first mass-
with the Italianisation of the word ‘bartender’ to ‘barista’, produced domestic espresso machine, that espresso culture
which became synonymous with coffee. Gaggia built an finally made it to the kitchen. Some of those original Babys,
espresso machine that used a piston to pressurise water which are now collectors’ items of note, are still working
to up to 15 bar, thereby eliminating the need to use super- on countertops around the world. And now espresso is a
heated steam. Coffee could now be made at 90°C instead of necessary pleasure world-wide, not just fuel for factory
a scorching 140°C, which removed the nasty burnt taste. workers.
Even more important, the smooth, controlled high-pressure
extraction retained the essential oils of the coffee bean,
creating an aromatic brew with a beautiful layer of light
foam on the surface. It’s something we take for granted now,
but it was revolutionary back then. When the punters first
noticed it, they complained about the ‘scum’ on their coffee,
but Gaggia suggested they try it before they knock it, and
he coined the term ‘crema’ to illustrate that this smooth and
delicious enhancement was indicative of a superior brew.
Italian Lifestyle
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War really is hell. Not least because it put a hold on the DBN: 031 566 1765 | [email protected]
development of the espresso machine. Gaggia’s patent lay www.italianlifestyle.co.za
dormant all through the Second World War, which saw
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