Estate Living August 2016 Digital Issue | Page 54

CHASING shadows ring of fire Is it a dragon, is it a wolf, or is it the severed head of a demon? No, it’s just a perfectly logical celestial occurrence. Scientists can explain – calmly and rationally – how and why eclipses occur, and even predict exactly when they will occur. But what they can’t explain is how they make people feel. That’s magic. Or maybe it is a dragon or a wolf. But I’m pretty sure it’s not a demon. I was on a shallow ephemeral sandbank island in the Zambezi, parking off on a comfy deck chair with my feet in the river and a cold beer in my hand. Wearing the funkiest eclipse glasses, I’d glance at the sun every so often, checking the progress of the moon, and then take the glasses off and watch birds, hippos or elephants on the far bank. As the moon obscured more and more of the sun, creeping closer and closer to the moment of totality, I was concerned that, really, it all seemed very ordinary. If I hadn’t been looking at the sun, I wouldn’t have noticed anything. And then it all changed in an instant. The difference between 1% coverage and 99% coverage was less than the difference between 99% and total. It’s not a matter of degree. A total eclipse is nothing like a partial eclipse. Within moments it went from bright afternoon to dusk and a 360-degree sunset glowed all round. The birds fell silent, the hippos stopped grunting and – it seemed – the world had stopped in its tracks. I took off the protective glasses and stared at the black disc in the sky with a wild halo of light where the solar atmosphere streamed off into space. Green and pink dots glowed on the edge of the disc, and a deep sadness overwhelmed me. I felt insecure – aware of the fact that the earth, which I’d previously taken so for granted, was just a ball of rock spinning in space. And even the island I was sitting on was just a pile of sand in a river, and it would be gone come next rainy season. Now I understand why the Greeks used the word “eclipse” to describe this phenomenon. It means abandonment, or downfall.