As someone who loves to travel, I’ve learned that the most satisfying way to experience the heart and soul of a place is to immerse oneself in the local flavors. You needn’t spend a lot at a fancy restaurant to enjoy an outstanding meal. That certainly holds true in Provence. For many visitors to Provence, the most memorable meals are those made with local ingredients that are purchased at the markets (a rewarding experience in itself) and prepared in unfussy ways so as to let the flavors speak for themselves.
This roast chicken recipe epitomizes Provence for me. After all, what says “Provence” louder than lots of golden olive oil, garlic, lemon, and herbs? This recipe combines the classic ingredients of Provençal cooking and turns a simple roasted chicken into a sublime meal that celebrates the sunshine brightness of local flavors.
You can find all the ingredients at the outdoor markets, expect perhaps the olive oil because it’s sensitive to sunlight and heat. Avignon and Nîmes have covered markets, called Les Halles, which do sell olive oils because of the controlled conditions indoors. It’s fun to shop for locally produced olive oil in Provence, either directly at the source where the olives are milled, such as around Les-Baux-de-Provence, Saint-Rémy, and Maussane, or at an épicerie. Do not leave Provence without sampling the olive oils. They rank right up there with the local wines: hard to find elsewhere, and hard to forget once you’ve had them.
Of course, you don’t have to be in Provence to make and enjoy this recipe. However, if you are, then all the better. (And lucky you!) Wherever you might be, if you close your eyes, inhale the aromas, and savor the flavors, you’ll be transported to Provence regardless. Bon appétit!
Recipe for Roast Chicken Provençal
Time: 1 hr. 10”
Yield: 4 servings
4 whole chicken legs or 8 bone-in, skin-on thighs
2 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbsp herbes de Provence
1 bunch thin carrots, with their green tops if possible
2 whole heads of garlic, unpeeled and halved crosswise to expose the cloves
1 lemon, thinly sliced and seeds removed
4 sprigs of thyme
1 cup olive oil
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season the chicken with salt and pepper, then rub with herbes de Provence.
2. If carrots have their green tops, trim them to about 1/2”. If using thin carrots, keep them whole. If carrots are thick, cut in half lengthwise.
3. Arrange the chicken in a large shallow baking dish so that the pieces lie flat in single layer with some room to spare. Scatter garlic head halves, lemon slices, carrots, and herb sprigs among the chicken pieces, tucking them in snugly. Pour the oil over the chicken and vegetables.
4. Put the pan in the oven and roast uncovered for 55-65 mins, until the chicken is cooked through and the carrots and lemons are lightly browned and caramelized. About halfway through cooking, spoon some of the roasting juices over the chicken and vegetables to keep them moist.
5. Serve in the pan or on a warmed platter, garnished with carrot tops (can substitute parsley).
Notes: The abundance of olive oil, which absorbs the zesty flavors of the seasoning, is what makes this dish. Serve with country bread or fougasse to mop up the juices, or rice, and a green salad. Leftover oil can be strained and stored in an airtight container for up to 1 month in the refrigerator and used later to roast vegetables or make bread crumbs. Chicken can be made 2 days ahead. If so, after cooling, cover and chill; bring to room temperature before serving.