of itiki, freshwater eels. Mitiaro itiki are considered a delicacy
in the Cook Islands. Tilapia (bream) are also abundant in the
lakes. The lakes are from time to time protected by a traditional
raui, a prohibition on all fishing to preserve stocks. At its widest
point, the island is 6.4 km across and private gardens in the
village are beautifully kept and neat. Community activities
include fishing, sports, handicrafts and uapou, or village
singsongs. Pretty and unspoiled, life on Mitiaro is refreshingly
uncomplicated.
Mangaia
Imagine visiting a fairly large island where you and maybe a
handful of others are the only tourists. Mangaia is an island of
incredible, serene beauty – from its rugged coastline to the lush,
green interior. It is peaceful beyond belief for those accustomed
to the constant rush and haste of the outside world. This is a
place where one can trek for miles along the coast or in the
interior and not meet another soul or hear a vehicle. Nor see
any dwellings; just lots of well-tended plantations of pineapples,
vegetables, taro, kumara and other crops.
Deep-sea fishing excursions are available – just ask your host,
who can also steer you in the right direction for guided tours
that include caving, reef/lagoon walks, bush walks and bird
watching. Check out the market on Friday mornings in the
‘town’ centre and the craftwork by the skilled Mangaian
women. The shell necklaces
and woven pandanus bags
are labour intensive and
sold for very reasonable
prices. Mangaia is the
destination for those who
love the outdoors, appreciate
peace and quiet and want
to experience a friendly
island that’s not in the least
“touristy.”
Palmerston
Made famous by
Englishman William
Marsters, who settled there
in 1863 with three wives.
He later married and raised
a large family. Marsters’
modern day descendents
are scattered all over the
world. About 60 still remain
in Palmerston, which has
six motu or islets in a big
blue lagoon about 11 km
across. The family exports
fish, supplying in particular,
parrot fish to Rarotonga restaurants. Palmerston hosts the
occasional cruise ship and yachts frequently call in. The island
also boasts one of the world’s most isolated bars, where thirsty
yachties can enjoy a “cold one” and hear tales being regaled by
the islanders. It is 500 km NW of Rarotonga.
Manuae
Manuae is an uninhabited nature reserve and an important
seabird and turtle breeding ground. Its two islets in a large
shallow lagoon make-up this incredibly beautiful island,
situated about 100 km SE of Aitutaki. Many Aitutakians
can claim traditional land rights to parts of Manuae. Once
inhabited by work gangs of Cook Islands men who produced
copra, it is now only occasionally visited by Aitutaki fisherman
for its rich fishing grounds outside and within the lagoon. It is
possible to view Manuae from the air, on a flight from Atiu to
Aitutaki.
The Northern Group
Suwarrow
Suwarrow is one of the few "untouched" sanctuaries left in
the world where existing endangered species can survive. The
Suwarrow National Park is the first National Park in the Cook
Islands - international environmental groups recognise the
Wreck of Te Kou Maru, Mauke.
Escape Magazine • 89