Drink Processing
Allen Meadows, editor of
Burghound. “At the same
time, generalist publications
are struggling as well, because
it’s hard to provide serious
in-depth coverage of many
deserving wine regions that
serious collectors want.”
Instead, wine criticism today
is like the Tower of Babel
– many people are talking,
but fewer may be listening.
Twenty years ago, there
was a handful of serious
wine critics, those writing
for daily newspapers or a few
specialty publications that
covered wine. Today, anyone
can be a wine blogger, and
literally, hundreds are. But
few bloggers have very large
audiences, and fewer still can
move that audience to buy.
Even those with a following
find it difficult to actually
make money as a blogger.
Allen Meadows is an anomaly
and is likely to remain so. In
November 2011, just after
Parker announced he was
cutting back on his reviewing,
not yet retiring, I surveyed
several people in the wine
trade for an article in this
publication about what the
future would look like “after
Parker”. One hypothesis was
that regional gurus might
emerge as Meadows had for
Burgundy with Burghound. It
hasn’t happened. No similar
authoritative voice has risen
to speak for Bordeaux, Napa
Valley, Champagne or the
Rhône.
Why is that? “It’s important to
point out that my model isn’t
really replicable beyond a few
wine regions,” Meadows says.
“There remains very strong
interest in both Burgundies
and Pinot Noirs. Part of this
is the fact that I offer the
most in-depth coverage of
these two sectors than any
other journal, and part of it
is that many of the upper-
level wines have become
so expensive that most
collectors believe that they
need quality advice. As one
subscriber put it, ‘Without
your reviews, I feel as though
I’m going to a gunfi ght with
a knife!’”
While there are few entry
barriers for young critics,
he says, “there are very few
who have the breadth of
experience to offer quality
advice,” explaining, “the
conundrum lies in exploring
how does a would-be
critic obtain the necessary
perspective when so few
young writers have the
wherewithal, or contacts, to
taste mature examples of the
greatest wines?”
Before we concede there
will never be another Robert
Parker, natural law may beg
to differ. Heimoff muses
about a phenomenon often
seen in business. “On the one
hand, we see the fracturing
of wine criticism with many
different viewpoints,” he says,
“[but], on the other hand,
there seems to be a natural
tendency for consolidation.”
In other words, if there is too
large a void, something – or
someone – will fi ll it.
[in the wine trade] would
outright say they don’t buy
wines that have scored high,
but I’m certain that a vast
majority of today’s serious
buyers would say that they
don’t pay attention to scores.
In general, when I started out
in the business, guests would
often ask about the scores of
wines, or order by looking
at cheat sheets. That never
happens anymore.”
Phil Bernstein, general
manager at MacArthur
Beverages in Washington,
D.C., agrees – sort of.
“People don’t pay as much
attention to scores as they
once did,” he says, “except
when the Wine Spectator’s
Top 100 comes out. With
shelf-talkers, points are still
the easiest way to sell.”
Rolland says that points
are still important to his
clientele, but now there is
confusion on the playing
field. “So today, there are
a lot of consultants, a lot of
new critics with their own
tastes, obviously different,
and the poor châteaux
are looking to seduce all
– mission impossible!” he
says. Jamie Ritchie, head
of Sotheby ’s global wine
business, concludes: “Points
Points still count in varying
degrees. New York-based
Arvid Rosegren, who won
the Best Sommelier in the
World 2016 competition,
says: “I don’t think anyone
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March-April 2020
are no longer driving sales,
but they are still a factor,”
After going through a lost
generation, wine merchants
are regaining their historic
status. Before Parker and
before other independent
critics, wine writing after
Wo r l d Wa r I I w a s t h e
province of experts in the
wine trade, people who had
the opportunity to taste a
wide variety of wines and
meet
with winemakers –
Lichine, Bespaloff, Simon,
Schoonmaker, Broadbent,
Wildman, Waugh. Today,
younger afi cionados are again
giving attention to the palates
and expertise of people who
sell wine – sommeliers and
wine shop personnel. “The
role of the wine merchant
that was absconded is
coming back,” Richie says.
“ Young customers want
our recommendations,”
Bernstein agrees, “although
they may then look at their
phones for the crowd
reactions.”
As long as there is
testosterone, and people
still drink wine, there will
be collectors. Most wine