I
think the most daunting part about switching to shaving with a safety razor is how to get started. Sure, there’s that fear of working with real razor blades, and turning your bathroom into the set of Sweeney Todd, but I think most men are less afraid of cutting themselves than they are of stepping out of their comfort zone with cartridge razors. The important thing to remember is that there really is no
wrong choice. Some of the joy in traditional shaving comes with trying new products and finding what works best with your skin. It is what makes shaving a skill and pleasure, not a chore. However, with the plethora of products available, that first step can seem confusing and intimidating. Below, I plan to layout a fantastic starting point for taking that first step into traditional wet shaving. Most, if not all, of these products are widely available. Of course, this is, by no means, an all-inclusive list, but should relieve much of that doubt that appears when getting started.
There are really only two razors men should look to for their first razors: the Merkur 34C and the Edwin Jagger DE89. There are a multitude of other razors available made by both these companies and many other companies. However, I have chosen these two because they offer, in my opinion, the best combination of quality, value and comfort. As far as the quality is concerned, they are both extremely well made products from companies with decades of craftsmanship behind them. When looking at price, it is important to consider what you are getting for what you are paying. While these are not the least expensive options, they certainly are not the most expensive either. Regardless, I believe they are of great value for what you get with them. Comfort is the most important category when starting, I think. This is a skill you are learning, and so there is a learning curve. It is critical to not choose a razor which is too aggressive that will chew up your face and force an early retirement from learning. However, it is also important to have a razor that will encourage you to improve your technique. So, a razor that is too mild is not a good option either. Both the Merkur 34C and the Edwin Jagger DE89 sit right in the middle of that curve between mild and aggressive making them likely choices for the beginner.
Razor blades are the most intimidating choice when getting started. There are so many options that it is almost impossible to choose. Russian or Indian? Stainless steel or platinum-coated? The sharpest or the smoothest? The best way to sort through all the options is to try a sample pack found on Amazon. Unfortunately, the only way to know if a blade works for you is to try it. To make matters more confusing, blades will work differently in different razors. So, once you have found a blade that you like, stick with that blade and razor combination for a while to get your technique down, and then you can start experimenting. If you absolutely need one razor to start with, I would recommend the Astra Superior Platinum blades. They are fairly sharp blades, but the platinum coating helps keep your shave a bit more comfortable, and I have never really heard someone make a complaint against them.
If you want to start an argument, as a group of traditional shavers if they recommend a pre-shave treatment. Some think using a pre-shave oil is a waste of time and money, others think it’s a crutch and take some of the skill needed out of the process and still others think it helps to get a better shave. I, personally, tend to have a closer, smoother shave when I do use a pre-shave. The only pre-shave I use is the Proraso Pre-shave Cream. This is an excellent product made in Italy since 1948. I have used oils in the past and have always found them to be too heavy, and they do not mix well with my skin. This Proraso cream, however, is light and not oily. It provides a great level of slickness that helps your blade glide across your face. If you are going to try a pre-shave, this is the first one to try.
Start with a boar brush. There are many wonderful badger brushes. The problem with badger brushes for people new to wet shaving is that a quality badger brush will cost you. Now, I am not saying don’t ever buy a badger brush, but, for now, I would start with a boar brush from Semogue or Omega. I personally like the Semogue 1305. A boar brush will take some additional time to break in compared to a badger brush, but it will only get better with time, just like your shaving.
Just like razor blades, your choices in shaving creams and soaps are virtually unlimited. I really like the Cella Shaving Soap from Italy. Cella is a soft soap making it extremely easy to lather, but it provides excellent protection during your shave too. If you don’t want to try a soap, but would rather start with something more familiar. The shaving creams from Taylor of Old Bond Street in London cannot be beat. Taylors makes excellent quality creams in a variety of scents. I always recommend the Sandalwood.
The only product on which I must insist on buying for anyone starting out with a safety razor is an alum block. It also happens to be the least expensive product. Just wet the alum block with a little cold water and run it over your face after you shave. The alum will help soothe any razor burn and it will also stop any nicks from bleeding. It acts as an astringent and an anticoagulant making it the perfect tool for any new shaver.
Finally, choosing an aftershave is almost as personal as choosing a cologne. While the scent will not last as long as cologne, how you choose to smell is a very personal decision. That being said, I always recommend the Geo. F. Trumper Skin Food. It’s unscented, so it won’t clash with any cologne you are wearing. Just a few drops will help heal and protect your skin after shaving. My normal post-shave routine consists of using an alum block followed up with the Coral Skin Food. It never disappoints.
There are so many product options available in the world it really is intimidating and can even turn some people away from learning this new skill. I invite you to visit Tailor and Barber with any question, advice or comments you might have regarding the world of shaving, style and gentlemen in general.
Regards,
Tailor and Barber