CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT : LINDSAY EBERLY ; COURTESY OF TERCET ; MARK RYWELSKI ; COURTESY OF KACHKA
KACHKA
RPM ITALIAN BURRATA DISH
KACHKA
DONUT & CAVIAR
SUSTAINABILITY MATTERS , TOO Ensuring there ’ s a future market for caviar means educating eaters about harvesting caviar and how to support responsible farmers for a better-tasting — and less impactful — product .
The complex and highly-competitive culinary scene in Portland , Oregon has proven to be quite the ground for pushing the boundaries in sustainable caviar as well .
Chef John Conlin uses caviar in a number of ways at his tasting-menu only restaurant Tercet , specifically using Tsar Nicoulai caviar from northern California — arguably America ’ s most sustainable caviar producer . It follows Conlin ’ s commitment to use responsibly-harvested products across his offerings , allowing guests to taste the difference .
While Conlin ’ s menu changes weekly based on what ’ s locally available ( and extremely fresh ), he starts each meal with oysters topped with a bit of caviar .
Interestingly , he says it ’ s more “ for texture , not necessarily flavor .”
At Russian restaurant Kachka in Portland , Oregon , Co-Owner and Chef Bonnie Morales believes in caviar as a food that should be enjoyed “ any way people wish ,” even putting it on the happy hour menu as the “ chips and dip ” option . She ’ ll even spread it on top of challah bread with just a bit of cultured butter .
“ I grew up eating caviar at both celebrations and in more casual gatherings at home , so I take that approach in my restaurant ,” she adds .
KEEPING IT SIMPLE Then , there are the chefs adding caviar to seemingly simple bites , elevating the food to an entirely new level .
Back in San Francisco , the first Russian restaurant in America ever to be listed on a Michelin Guide , Birch & Rye , uses caviar as a finisher for dessert .
The meal ends with rye donuts , caramel and Siberian sturgeon caviar . It ’ s a new , decadent take on sweet-and-salty that ’ s certainly a rare treat among tasting menus anywhere in the country . ( The restaurant even extends this to the drink menu via a caviar-infused vodka .)
As chefs continue to push the limit , caviar will only be opened to those curious about what makes this storied ingredient such a sought-after addition to meals everywhere .
WE World 63 Winter 2022 / 23