Last Impressions / Ivan Spiers
10
MINUTES WITH Ivan Spiers
THE LOCAL RESTAURANT OWNER TALKS ABOUT THE PATH THAT BROUGHT HIM TO LAGUNA AND HIS PASSION FOR GOOD FOOD , MUSIC AND TRAVEL .
By SHARON STELLO
Ivan Spiers , owner of Mozambique , Skyloft , Rumari and Bodega Laguna Cocina & Cantina in town , pictured with his dog , Max
R estaurateur Ivan Spiers , who grew up in South Africa , brought some of that country ’ s flavors to Laguna Beach by opening Mozambique nearly two decades ago and has established several new dining concepts in recent years .
In 2015 , he launched barbecue eatery Skyloft and , in 2023 , he took over Rumari , reopening with a menu of both Italian cuisine and Greek dishes . Also last year , he introduced Laguna Fish Co ., which then transitioned to Bodega Laguna Cocina & Cantina . In December , a vintage hangout called Herb ’ s Place was added inside Skyloft with boozy shakes , barbecue and retro tunes . He also owns Daryl ’ s House , a restaurant and live music club in New York .
But it all started at Mozambique with woodfired meats , seafood , peri peri sauce , samosas and curry , flavors from Spiers ’ childhood that he wanted to introduce to Orange County .
Spiers says his dad was born at a gold mine in South Africa and his mother came from England right before World War II . “ I was born up in Zululand , close to the Mozambique border ,” he says . “ Grew up there till I was 13 , then my dad sold everything . … We had a trading store and a paint factory . Then we moved to … Durban , where I grew up the last five or six years before I left South Africa .”
Spiers moved to England to work for record label EMI , then traveled to the U . S ., Hong Kong and Australia before settling in Laguna Beach about 35 years ago . “ There ’ s very few countries I haven ’ t been to ,” he says . He has also previously worked in the restaurant industry .
At his current restaurants , Spiers says it ’ s all about the people — many have worked for him for a long time . “ We bring them up through the ranks ,” he says . “ It ’ s all about empowering them .” His restaurants also have loyal customers . “ We want to make sure they have a fantastic experience ,” he says , “ from the ambiance and the decor to the food and the service .”
LAGUNA BEACH MAGAZINE : What brought you to the U . S .? IVAN SPIERS : I met some guys in the Canary Islands while surfing and they were from Monterey , California . So I got to know them . … I decided to leave England with the weather and the strikes [ going on ]. This was back in the late ’ 60s , early ’ 70s . The guys were like , “ Why don ’ t you come to the States ?” So I bought a ticket and came to the United States — traveled by Greyhound bus … from New York and finally ended up in Monterey , California , … working on all the farms .
LBM : What drew you to Laguna ? IS : I … moved down here because I was doing a lot of business with … all the action sports companies . I was in the apparel business . I had 29 stores [ called Clothes Out ] in Northern California and those were sold in ’ 90 [ or ] ’ 91 , if I remember correctly . … This was pre- Ross , pre-T . J . Maxx , pre-Marshalls .
LBM : Why did you open Mozambique ? IS : I bought … [ the building ] one day at auction . … I decided to call it Mozambique . I know the flavors of Mozambique and Southern Africa . With the Indian , the Malay people , the Afrikaans , the Dutch people , the Portuguese — so many cultures , … but it ’ s all blended in South Africa . … It took a lot of [ time ] getting the spices and everything [ for the restaurant ]. … And now it ’ s been open close to 20 years .
LBM : Do you have any hobbies ? IS : Listening to music … and helping other musicians . We employ a lot of musicians between Skyloft and Mozambique . … I played guitar and some keyboards . I was in bands in South Africa from 14 . … [ I like ] older rock ’ n ’ roll — it ’ s my era that I was born in . Southern rock , Lynyrd Skynyrd … and The [ Rolling ] Stones .
LBM : Any Laguna restaurants you like ? IS : I love The Drake , the Montage , [ Splashes at ] Surf & Sand . … There ’ s other places , … but I don ’ t really go out that much . [ With The Drake ,] it ’ s just the food and the atmosphere . The way it ’ s decorated , it ’ s unique . They have jazz . It ’ s great . I also love The Ranch [ at Laguna Beach ] for its peaceful setting and the surrounding hills , … which remind … me of an escarpment in Southern Africa . g
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