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Dine / Nick ’ s Laguna Beach

FOOD & DRINK

Classic and Contemporary

SINCE OPENING MORE THAN 15 YEARS AGO , NICK ’ S LAGUNA BEACH HAS REMAINED A FAVORITE IN THE LOCAL DINING SCENE .
By SHARON STELLO

O ther restaurants have come and gone , but Nick ’ s Laguna Beach — the first location for this small , regional chain — has been a staple in our coastal town since opening in 2008 .

Situated in the downtown area on South Coast Highway , this cozy spot features a central bar , booths and tables along the dining room ’ s edge and a front patio to eat your meal while watching passersby . The display kitchen , which was renovated in the fall , is surrounded by windows in the back of the
Top left : Nick ’ s Laguna Beach , opened in 2008 , is a fixture along South Coast Highway in the downtown area . Above : the blackened fish sandwich and fries ; left : appetizers including ( clockwise from back ) the bacon deviled eggs ; asparagus fries and tuna tartare , shown with the Nick ’ s Mai Tai ( bottom left ) and jalapeno watermelon margarita ( center )
room . Even with a small kitchen , the quality and variety of dishes is impressive .
Settle in with a glass of wine , beer or a cocktail : Consider the jalapeno watermelon margarita or Nick ’ s Mai Tai , which is made with spiced rum and topped with lilikoi ( passion fruit ) foam .
For appetizers to share with the table , consider the bacon deviled eggs , which are a lightly fried version of this classic — complete with a Parmesan-and-panko crust — and come topped with crumbles of applewood-smoked bacon . These delicious bites have been on the menu since Nick ’ s opened and it ’ s easy to see why . The asparagus fries are another popular item , with a crunchy Parmesan crust and a buttermilk ranch dipping sauce ; the center is a vegetable so you can pretend you ’ re being healthy . The tuna tartare is also a tempting option , with chunks of sashimi-grade tuna marinated in a spicy soy sauce , served with a spicy aioli , sliced avocado and crispy wontons .
Those seeking a salad will find plenty of creative varieties , from a Spicy Thai rendition that incorporates udon noodles and peanut dressing to the Grilled Steakhouse selection with sliced rib-eye , mixed greens , warm potato salad , a blue cheese wedge and tomatoes .
When it comes to entrees , diners would be remiss not to try the buttermilk fried chicken . The crisp breading gives way to succulent chicken , served boneless with whipped mashed potatoes and a flavorful sausage country gravy , buttermilk biscuit and sweet roasted corn on the cob . For a handheld option , the prime rib dip and original rib-eye melt are both popular . The former , which uses thinsliced meat that ’ s slow-roasted daily and served on a brioche bun with red wine au jus , is only offered until the eatery runs out . However , the blackened fish sandwich is an excellent choice , too . Well seasoned , the flaky fish — which changes based on seasonal availability — comes on a brioche bun piled high with house-made tartar sauce , crunchy cabbage , wild baby arugula , tomato and fried “ firestick ” onions .
And there are plenty of other dishes on the menu , from baby back pork ribs to chicken piccata , pan-seared Chilean sea bass , Scottish salmon , San Francisco cioppino , center-cut filet and a crispy chicken sandwich .
Nick ’ s is also open for breakfast with favorites like avocado toast , fried chicken and waffles , chilaquiles or a croque madame . Wash it down with a mimosa , a bloody mary garnished with fried , blue cheese-stuffed olives or an espresso martini . We can ’ t think of a better way to get the morning started . g
NICK ’ S LAGUNA BEACH 440 S . Coast Highway ; 949-376-8595 ; nicksrestaurants . com HOURS : 11 a . m . to 10 p . m . Monday through Wednesday ; 11 a . m . to 11 p . m . Thursday and Friday ; 8:30 a . m . to 11 p . m . Saturday ; and 8:30 a . m . to 10 p . m . Sunday
TOP LEFT : COURTESY OF NICK ’ S LAGUNA BEACH ; TOP RIGHT AND BOTTOM : ASHLEY RYAN
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