Dine / Royal Hawaiian
FOOD & DRINK
A Tropical Throwback
BELOVED EATERY ROYAL HAWAIIAN ROLLS BACK INTO TOWN WITH A VINTAGE NOD TO ITS HISTORY .
By ASHLEY RYAN
Top left : Royal Hawaiian dishes including ( from left ) grilled rib-eye , curry pineapple rice and Huli-Huli Half Bird Inasal chicken ; clockwise from top right : the renovated interior , inspired by the eatery ’ s original decor ; the Triple Happiness cocktail ; a pupu platter with chicken skewers , lumpia pork egg rolls , crab rangoons and crispy coconut shrimp
S tep back in time to the 1940s , when Royal Hawaiian first opened in Laguna Beach . Tiki culture was just gaining popularity and the laid-back , tropical vibe was the perfect fit for this coastal town .
Though there have been multiple iterations over the years , the opening of the new Royal Hawaiian aims to re-create the vibe of the original restaurant , with a vintage design , detail-oriented renovation and a menu of favorites . Los Angeles-based Boulevard Hospitality Group worked with Ignacio “ Notch ” Gonzalez of Top Notch Kustoms
on the rebuild , incorporating artifacts like lamps , mugs and more from the original restaurant while woodcarver Vic Hernandez crafted new Tiki statues to stand guard at front , modeled after the 1960s versions .
With a giant clamshell bench in the lobby , jade tiles , colored lights , thatched elements and a 45-foot bar with stunning lit shelves , the interior is a sight to behold — and so are the cocktails . The original Royal Hawaiian made the rum-filled Chief Lapu Lapu famous , and now it ’ s back and better than ever , with fresh passion fruit placed on top and served flaming . Other throwback drinks include the ingredient-heavy Singapore Sting and the Deep Sea Diver , another rum-forward option sweetened with a house-made honey cream .
Modern concoctions are on the menu as well . Don ’ t overlook the Triple Happiness , a sweet and smoky cocktail of tequila and mezcal that is served in a skull-shaped dish of dry ice for a foggy show . The two-person Bali Bali bowl is another fun one , so strong that it ’ s meant for sharing .
When it comes time to order , you ’ ll find an array of island-inspired dishes from Hawaii and beyond crafted by Head Chef JaeHee Lee , a native of Guam . Make sure to try the pupu platter , which allows you to select four appetizers to sample . From seafood options like the crispy coconut shrimp and creamy crab rangoons to grilled chicken skewers , empanadas to Spam musubi , there is something for everyone , but the true highlight is the lumpia egg roll , stuffed with braised pork and vegetables and served with a sweet chile dipping sauce .
For the main course , there are a number of flavorful dishes to choose from . For a light lunch , try the tuna poke , where ahi tuna is served alongside a bed of mixed greens , or even the grilled Huli-Huli Half Bird Inasal , a perfectly marinated , boneless half chicken . Heartier options include the grilled teriyaki rib-eye with crispy onions on top , the Royal Ribs ( another throwback to the past ) and the curry pineapple rice , in which fried jasmine rice is mixed with peas , scallions , Portuguese sausage and curry then topped with shrimp — all served in an actual pineapple half . The menu also offers a Japanese-style burger , veggie kabobs , Atlantic salmon and a creamy macaroni salad ( it can be ordered by itself or as a side with an entree ) that you simply must try .
Whether you end the meal with pineapple or coconut cake or another cocktail , you ’ re sure to leave feeling refreshed and maybe a little nostalgic , too . g
ROYAL HAWAIIAN : 331 N . Coast Highway 949-549-4354 ; royalhawaiianoc . com HOURS : 11 a . m . to 10 p . m . Sunday through Thursday ; 11 a . m . to 11 p . m . Friday and Saturday
WALES COMMUNICATIONS
78 LAGUNABEACHMAGAZINE . COM