inthekitchen
Fried Chicken
A longstanding staple of
the diner and fast-food
experience, our current era of elevated dining has inspired new takes on classic fried
chicken. Most recently, the temperature has been turned up–in some instances, way up–as
the hot chicken trend establishes its foothold. But be it mild or spicy, this crispy, breaded
and tender fare has been checking all the boxes (or should we say buckets?) for decades
and isn’t giving up its seat at the head of the picnic table anytime soon.
Brazen Hall
■ Fried Fricken
Chicken
Order it cajun.
Order it crispy.
Order it Nashville.
No matter
the style, order
chef Jose Noboa’s Fried Fricken
Chicken (above). Served in a
half or whole order, the latter for
those whose eyes and stomach
are directly proportional, these
big, slathered-in-sauce birds are
multi-napkin endeavours with a
flaky exterior that breaks away to
reveal juicy meat. And don’t worry
about a single, solitary drop of the
dressing going to waste. A healthy
helping of thick house-cut fries is
perfect for sopping up every ounce
of stray sauce. Most clever is the
draping of thinly sliced dill pickle
atop it all. They offer some soursweet
tang that plays in perfect
contrast to the palate-pleasing
spice provided by the Nashville
seasoning’s heat.
Tallest Poppy ■ Fried Chicken
With creamy and extra-cheesy grits, smooth
and fluffy mashed potatoes and warm, delectable
biscuits as available sides, the influence of
the Deep South is evident in chef Talia Syrie’s
creations at this Sherbrook stop. And all of
that is even before one gets a whiff of Syrie’s fried chicken
(above). The well-battered pieces give off a scent that eliminates
the need for any further evidence justice is being done
to soul food classics at The Tallest Poppy. If that isn't enough,
though, one bite into a juicy piece removes all doubt this is
an upper-echelon dish. Its pleasing and distinctly peppery
accents are on point and ensure no serving is here to stay.
Photography: Ian McCausland, Courtesy of Brazen Hall (Fried
Fricken Chicken & portrait), Courtesy Magic Bird (Fried Chicken &
portrait), Courtesy Red Top Drive-Inn (Chicken Dinner & portrait)
18
ciao! / summer / two thousand twenty