Charcuterie
inthekitchen
Though at times associated
with the entirety of its
offerings, charcuterie refers only to the smoked and cured meats at the centre
of these spreads. Among the trendiest additions to any menu, foodies
fawn over the assortment available on each unique board. An array
of cheeses, breads, dips and spreads invites sampling, begs eaters to
explore flavours and turns artisinal ingredients into a shareable
plate easily assembled on your own board at any picnic table.
Peasant Cookery ■ Charcuterie
A movement must start somewhere, and
Winnipeg’s first true forays into the world of
charcuterie came at Peasant Cookery under
since-departed chef Tristan Foucault.
The charcuterie game hasn’t slipped one iota
under chef Melissa Makarenko. Dry-cured meats made in
house, including a spicy chorizo and a stunning duck proscuitto,
are the veritable old faithfuls among the gorgeous board’s offerings
(below), but this French comfort joint’s pickled vegetables
elevate the shareable spread. Using a signature blend of spices
and local dill, beans and cucumbers add a welcome crunch.
Saddlery on Market
■ Charcuterie
As one expects,
cured meats are
front and center, but
a rotating selection
of cheeses selected
by chef Damien Thorsteinson
helps balance the board (above).
The same can be said for the addition
of local honey, which adds its
distinct sweetness to a generally
salt-heavy appetizer. Speaking of
which: house-made pickles bring
salt, spice and a punch of garlic to
the table, and olives are a mustadd
as the specific briny quality
complements the piquancy of
the cured meats well.
Photography: Ian McCausland, Courtesy of Saddlery on Market (Charcuterie & portrait)
InFerno’s ■ Trio Des Pâtés
InFerno’s combination of French and Mediterranean
fares is unique, but chef Fern Kirouac’s
trio des pâtés (right) leans decidedly in the
direction of the former. The country style
pâté’s rich pork flavour contrasts well with
the silkiness of chicken liver pâté. The star of the show,
however, is the foie gras. Known the world over for its
rich, buttery texture, this delicacy alone is worth the
price of admission. The execution of all three leaves no
doubt why this spot has long been a city favourite.
14
ciao! / summer / two thousand twenty