Photography by David Lipnowski
CIBO WATERFRONT CAFE Neighbourhood ....... Exchange Address .... 339 Waterfront Dr Phone ............ 204-594-0339 Entrées .................... $ 17- $ 35
At Cibo Waterfront Cafe , towering ceilings and decorative steel hooks and chains are remnants of the building ’ s history as a pumping station , while industrial beauty and slick design elements provide modern flair . It ’ s a combination that makes this eatery nestled along the bank of the Red River aesthetically analogous with its cuisine : what ’ s old is new again as Italian classics are given modern verve .
Calamari is a menu mainstay indicating this spot ’ s Mediterranean influence . Served across a base of arugula , lightly battered golden rings are dusted with smoked paprika and topped with slivers of house-pickled red onion with sour and sweet notes . Rings of banana pepper are hidden throughout , providing a heat soothed by a refreshing tzatziki .
Beet and beef salad is a stunning combination . A buttery eight-ounce sirloin cap is expertly seared and thinly sliced to expose a deep pink centre . A sweet red pepper vinaigrette cuts the savoury steak while a bed of peppery arugula accents the seasoning . Beets provide an earthy depth of flavour and goat cheese yields a creamy , velvety texture .
Mains range from quintessential Italian cuisine to Canadian bistro pillars such as a blackened chicken club , steak sandwich and fried chicken . Traditional beef bolognese is given a refresh and a slight kick by substituting chorizo . Spooned over ribbons of al dente pappardelle and topped with slices of Italian mozzarella .
Inventiveness is unquestionably at its pinnacle in airy , thin crust pizzas . ciao ! reviews
Creative pairings include a vegetarian eggplant and feta pie that is otherworldly . Eggplant and sun-dried tomatoes are settled into a layer of mozzarella atop a crust that crunches . Finished with a salty , crumbled feta , the entire pizza is given vital spice from a drizzle of sharp sauce and a decorative touch of arugula .
Affogato is an excellent dessert to cap a meal . Espresso , poured over vanilla ice cream topped with chocolate beans and a drizzle of caramel is rich and subtly bitter and makes an ideal accompaniment to housemade chocolate biscotti .
Cibo is open Sun to Thu , 11 am to 10 pm and Fri to Sat 11 am to 11 pm .
FRANKIE ’ S ITALIAN KITCHEN Neighbourhood ... South Tuxedo Address 505 Sterling Lyon Pkwy Phone ............ 204-410-4980 Entrées .................... $ 17- $ 37
Excellent Italian restaurants can be found in virtually every corner of this city to meet inevitable cravings , from the longstanding spots that anchor Little Italy to Mom and Pop neighbourhood haunts . Frankie ’ s Italian Kitchen , by contrast , opened on a parking pad amid big box retailers and a shopping centre , in eyeshot of shoppers needing to recharge . Skeptics ( aka food snobs ) might not see convenience as a draw .
Be prepared for a perspective shift upon stepping into this cavernous and contemporary space . The pillars of Italian hospitality — family , friends , food — are apparent . Smiling eyes and warm greetings welcome diners in , while increasing anticipation .
A muraled wall featuring wine barrels manages to cozy up this large space and stylish wine shelving adds elegance . In these unusual times , happy sociable staff are a reminder that necessary spaciousness and table separators enable joyful dining out .
The heart of the restaurant beats to Italian kitchen classics . Snacks and cocktails , pizzas , pastas and mains fill a menu of familiar fare . Nonna approved ultra-tender meatballs , mussels in a slightly piquant tomato and garlic broth and sauteed garlic prawns are sublime starters . Crisp fried arancini stuffed with peas , carrots and bocconcini sit atop slightly sweet tomato sauce . Polenta French Fries served with garlic aioli dip are a playful revamp of the favourite snack .
Pasta shines . The basics like spaghetti carbonara , lasagna and gnocchi are standouts . Shrimp scampi tagliatelle features house-made fresh noodles in a luscious lobster cream sauce spiked with garlic and shallots . The plump shrimp are but a bonus .
Meat lovers need only choose from four mains : lamb shank , beef tenderloin , marsala chicken and veal parmesan . Tender braised lamb shank mingles with bitter rapini and creamy risotto . Unctuous gravy elevates the entrée to Sunday supper status .
When there is not more than a sliver of space left for dessert , choose the Sofio al Limone – a cute portion of vanilla bean and lemon mousse with a sweet pucker finish that is , after all , “ mostly air .”
Frankie ’ s is open Mon-Thurs 11 am-11 pm , Fri to Sat 11 am-12am and Sun 11 am-10pm .
MONTICCHIO Neighbourhood . South Osborne Address ......... 684 Osborne St Phone ............ 204-477-4773 Entrées ................... $ 14- $ 23
Through the door of Monticchio Ristorante Italiano , diners find walls adorned with eye-catching artistry , exposed brick wainscotting skirting
ciao ! / oct / nov / two thousand twenty 33