a carry across the coastline or cliff tops of the Irish Sea. Holes 11 and 12 (the
Amen corner of Ardglass) are particularly exciting, set across from Coney
Island made famous by Van Morrison, and on clear days you can see past the
Irish Sea to the Isle of Man.
Protected by water on the right and wind bushes on the left, at the 488
yards par-5 11th it’s essential to hit three straight shots to reach the green in
regulation. As the course guide says ‘Play this hole with the same ball and
be happy!’ The par-3 12th is arguably the course’s signature hole drawing
comparisons with the famous 17th hole at Pebble Beach. The view from
the elevated tee, with a backdrop of the Irish Sea and the majesty of the
brooding Mourne Mountains is worth the green fee alone. Ardglass is home
to one of the oldest and most distinct clubhouses in Ireland - a castle that
dates back to the 12th century. We hole out on the final green and then
enjoy some cold beers on the rooftop turret bar. As the late afternoon sun
casts long shadows across this memorable course we raise our glasses to the
days ahead.
Overnight: Slieve Donard Resort & Spa (Newcastle)
Day 2: PORTSTEWART – County Antrim
It’s a claim that’s often made – Portstewart’s Strand course has arguably the
best opening hole in Irish golf. Played from an elevated tee with topography
that bucks and plunges like a raging river, I need to focus on my ball and
avoid being distracted by the stunning coastal views on this classic 427
yards par-4 called Tubber Patrick. It’s a memorable start to a wonderful links
dominated by a huge dunescape peppered with plenty of testing holes
One of these is the 6th, aptly named Five Penny Piece, and with a green not
much larger than a snooker table and only 135 yards from the whites, it can
be anything from a rescue club to a gap wedge depending on the wind. It’s
been a tough nine holes with more snowmen (8’s) on the card than in British
gardens at Christmas time, so we head straight to the windswept bar near
the 10th tee to enjoy a smooth Bushmills whiskey before tackling the back
nine.
In the afternoon, as a diversion from golf we visit the famous Giant’s
Causeway, Northern Ireland’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site. Made up
of thousands of hexagonal pillars that climb out of the Atlantic Ocean, this
stunning natural formation was created by Finn MacCool, an Irish giant that
lived along the Antrim Coast. The logical and less romantic version is that
about 60 million years ago there was intense volcanic activity along the
coast, after which the lava cooled very quickly. The uneven cooling rate
resulted in the basalt contracting into the characteristic hexagonal and
octagonal pillar shapes you see today.
The Giant’s Causeway may be the star of the Causeway Coast, but other
worthwhile attractions include the stunning Carrick-a-Rede swinging rope
bridge that spans a gaping chasm between the coast and a small island
used by fishermen, and the haunting ruins of 16th-century Dunluce Castle
perched precariously on the edge of a rocky headland. Back at the Bushmills
Inn we spend a convivial evenin