PICTURE PERFECT
Istanbul is a city of two very different halves, split between Europe and Asia.
Picture-postcard Istanbul lies on the European side with the stunning Hagia
Sophia, Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace Museum. The museum has one of the
world’s most amazing single rooms of exhibits, with the Sword of David, the Staff
of Moses, the Beard of Muhammad and the Skull of John the Baptist.
But don’t be distracted, there is much
more to do. As well as the European
side of the city (6m people) there is a
burgeoning Asian city (9m people) on the
opposite bank of the Bosphorous. Uskudar
Chrysopolis, the ‘city of gold’ is a city in its
own right, full of life and tradition. You can
go to the farthest point at Fehnerbahce
(the only major soccer club is on the Asian
shore, unlike Galatasaray and Bezitkas) to
walk the gardens and look back at Europe.
Dominating the main square is the
magnificent Iskele Camii, which was
built sometime around 1557, by Sinan
as a tribute to Mihrimah, daughter of
Suleyman the Magnificent.
If you make it to Yeni Valide Camii you will
find a peaceful courtyard to sit in with cats
for company.
As the evening light fades the buzz of
Bagdat Street matches anything back on
the European side of the Bosphorous.
Have a drink on Bagdat Street and soak
up the atmosphere while watching the
sunset.
Istanbul is about water. The Bosphorous
leads to the Black Sea, the Golden Horn,
the world’s largest natural harbour, and
the mouth of two rivers. The Bosphorous
divides Europe from Asia, while the
Golden Horn divides the European side in
two. The long bridge where the salt water
meets the fresh water is lined with anglers,
day and night.
The centre of Istanbul is Eminonu quay,
a tram ride from the tourist attractions,
where the throngs gather to cram the
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ferries bound every 15 minutes for the
magical, mysterious Asian shores.
The ferries are coloured vividly with
scarlet lifebuoys, and belch black smoke as
they chug away from one continent to the
next. The 20-minute crossing to Uskudar
can be a breezy pleasure, enhanced with
strong tea in tiny tulip glasses.
The skyline shines in every direction,
as glistening mosques brandish their
minarets like medieval bayonets and the
silent Galata Tower, a relic of Genoesecolonial Times, peers down on the city
below. Topkapi Palace lurks behind
its veil of vegetation, and extravagant
mansions and palaces line the shoreline.
In the distance, the gatepost castles of
the Bosphorous remind everyone that
Constantinople was unstormable.
The sunshine dances on the choppy
surface of the Bosphorus. The mysterious
Kiz Kulesi, a fairytale lighthouse on a
rocky outcrop, sits near the shore. In the
distance you can see the Princes’ Islands
in the Sea of Marmara, a taste of holiday
resort Turkey, just a short boat ride from
the city.
They are an enticing sight, sun
resorts from the south east
magically towed to lie within
easy reach of the metropolis.
Then, as you reach Istanbul’s Asian shore,
the engines go quiet. Most tourists stay in
the nest of hotels around Taksim Square,
an eclectic area, which mixes popular bars,
like the delightful Biz Jazz Bar (it has great
live music and a bubbling atmosphere),
with busy restaurants.