Duncasnby Sea Stacks
Brora
Rogart Mountains
to leave you breathless and golf that plays over two of
the world’s best courses.
The NC500 starts in Inverness, the region’s capital.
There is a non-stop bustle to the city’s restaurants,
shops and nightlife, which all fall under the gaze of
Inverness Castle. In one shape or another, the castle
has been watching over this part of the Highlands for a
thousand years. It must never tire of the views that spill
away to the north and up the Moray Firth, which begins
beneath the castle walls.
One of those views is Fortrose and Rosemarkie Golf
Club [www.fortrosegolfclub.co.uk], just up the Moray
Firth. This is a low-lying links, set on a narrow peninsula
which juts sharply into the sea. Holes stretch out to the
tip, called Chanonry Point, where people gather daily at
the lighthouse, waiting for a pod of dolphins to put on
a daily show. Golfers can enjoy the performance from
the 4th green. Sadly, the show was cancelled on the day
I played.
8
Duncansby Sea Stacks
This is the starting point for the region’s serious golf
courses, stretching 60 miles north. Tain, Royal Dornoch,
The Carnegie Club, Golspie and Brora make up a
menagerie of magical links. But there is a heathland
course nearby, which should not be ignored.
Fifteen miles west of Fortrose is the Muir of Ord Golf
Club [www.muirofordgolfclub.co.uk]. It was laid out by
the great James Braid, in 1875. I became a big fan of
Braid’s work on this trip and he is responsible for five
of the courses on the NC500 route. Fortrose is one
and Brora another. He embraced the joys of deceiving
golfers and making them think, especially when
approaching greens. Muir of Ord is but one example.
I would be lying if I said this was the only reason for my
detour: this was to be the first of my three whisky tours.
The nearby Glen Ord Distillery [www.discovering-
distilleries.com/glenord/] produces the Singleton Single
Malt, but much of their whisky now ends up under
the Johnny Walker label, destined for Japan. There is