The 1st Tee at Ardglass GC.
Day 1: ARDGLASS – County Down Day 2: PORTSTEWART – County Antrim
From Dublin airport we drive two hours north to the first course
of our trip - Ardglass Golf Club. This spectacular old-style links
and clifftop gem hugs a rugged headland on the County Down
coastline, offering sea views from every hole. Ardglass really is
a course to savour with some outstanding holes. The course
begins with a bang where a line of cannons point the way to
the green of the par-4 1st followed by the daunting par-3 2nd,
both requiring a carry across the coastline or cliff tops of the
Irish Sea. Holes 11 and 12 (the Amen corner of Ardglass) are
particularly exciting, set across from Coney Island made famous
by Van Morrison, and on clear days you can see past the Irish
Sea to the Isle of Man. It’s a claim that’s often made – Portstewart’s Strand course
has arguably the best opening hole in Irish golf. Played from
an elevated tee with topography that bucks and plunges like
a raging river, I need to focus on my ball and avoid being
distracted by the stunning coastal views on this classic 427
yards par-4 called Tubber Patrick. It’s a memorable start to a
wonderful links dominated by a huge dunescape peppered with
plenty of testing holes One of these is the 6th, aptly named Five
Penny Piece, and with a green not much larger than a snooker
table and only 135 yards from the whites, it can be anything
from a rescue club to a gap wedge depending on the wind. It’s
been a tough nine holes with more snowmen (8’s) on the card
than in British gardens at Christmas time, so we head straight
to the windswept bar near the 10th tee to enjoy a smooth
Bushmills whiskey before tackling the back nine.
Protected by water on the right and wind bushes on the left, at
the 488 yards par-5 11th it’s essential to hit three straight shots
to reach the green in regulation. As the course guide says ‘Play
this hole with the same ball and be happy!’ The par-3 12th is
arguably the course’s signature hole drawing comparisons
with the famous 17th hole at Pebble Beach. The view from the
elevated tee, with a backdrop of the Irish Sea and the majesty
of the brooding Mourne Mountains is worth the green fee
alone. Ardglass is home to one of the oldest and most distinct
clubhouses in Ireland - a castle that dates back to the 12th
century. We hole out on the final green and then enjoy some
cold beers on the rooftop turret bar. As the late afternoon sun
casts long shadows across this memorable course we raise our
glasses to the days ahead.
In the afternoon, as a diversion from golf we visit the famous
Giant’s Causeway, Northern Ireland’s only UNESCO World
Heritage Site. Made up of thousands of hexagonal pillars that
climb out of the Atlantic Ocean, this stunning natural formation
was created by Finn MacCool, an Irish giant that lived along
the Antrim Coast. The logical and less romantic version is that
about 60 million years ago there was intense volcanic activity
along the coast, after which the lava cooled very quickly. The
uneven cooling rate resulted in the basalt contracting into the
characteristic hexagonal and octagonal pillar shapes you see
today.
Overnight: Slieve Donard Resort & Spa (Newcastle)
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