Dec/Jan 2015 Number ninty-five | Page 66

natural homes on the menu .
The deli ’ s walking neighbourhood location lends well to the homey vibe , keeping in step with delicatessens ’ long history as gathering places for community . Servers bounce from packed table to packed table , slinging sammies with the teasing familial affection that turns diners into regulars .
Sherbrook St Deli is open Mon-Sun 10 am-8 pm .
SOUS SOL Neighbourhood ... Osborne Village Address . . . 22-222 Osborne St Phone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N / A Entrées . . . . . . . . . . .$ 14- $ 17
Seinfeld fans will hunt down , Sous Sol may frustrate the modern diner ’ s need to digitally scope every aspect of an experience before making the trek to eat out . Cheekily doling out a liberal dash of mystery , this neospeakeasy creates a dining experience that thrives on hush-hush theatricality but warmly welcomes those who seek it out .
Speakeasies have been trending in hubs like New York and Chicago for years , playing to Jazz Age aesthetic by hiding chic cocktail spaces behind unmarked doors and fake businesses . Libations raise the ante on their Prohibition Era counterparts , with craft cocktail lists as carefully curated as the menu . Sous Sol hits all these marks , serving creative drinks , stellar
served , on one visit , atop a dreamy sherry demiglace . Lean horse tartare finished with an orange orb of yolk gains a light briny note from chopped capers , accenting the richness of the jewel-pink meat .
Fish is also handled deftly . An exquisite piece of pan fried sea bream on one visit was crisp and flaky , served skin-on . A scattering of kale , sautéed leeks , plump capers , whole hazelnuts and chopped eggs cloaked in a light , zingy mousseline delivered a perfectly balanced complement .
Indulgence is the name of the game for sides like thinly sliced potatoes dauphinoise , ( a popular recurring menu item ) bathed in rich cream sauce , or pillowy ricotta
Down a set of steps under an unmarked awning and past double doors reading “ Vandelay Industries ”, a nondescript swinging door opens onto a dreamy , charming world . Besides a few electric wall sconces , the romantic lighting is courtesy of wax-dripping tapers on every table and a curlicued chandelier . Mismatched antique chairs , reclaimed wood , and fussy patterned china play off winking touches like a back corner wallpapered with vintage recipes , or the hollowed-out novel that brings the cheque with an auspicious flourish .
With no phone , no reservations , and a social media presence that only food , and unbeatable atmosphere .
Helmed by some of the minds behind Sydney ’ s at the Forks ( including head chef Michael Robins ), fine dining influence shines through the ever-changing menu . Though updated weekly , the collection of cheffy French classics is always sure to raise the bar on cuisine while keeping the familiar feeling of comfort food – like all French menus , there is no fear of butter here .
Meat is showcased in divine preparations that follow the tenants of haute cuisine , from surpassingly rich duck confit to perfectly seared and juicy beef noisette , topped with a decadent round of foie gras and dumplings , redolent of brown butter .
The restaurant ’ s sense of humour ( you may find rubber chickens hiding throughout the room ) makes its way onto the menu in the form of playful appetizers and wild cocktails , like addictively tender frogs ’ legs , fried until crisp in airy herbed batter , or a tall rum-based concoction lit on fire and delivered to the table with a housemade marshmallow and mini roasting stick .
With a charming blend of craft , elegance , and playfulness , it ’ s clear that despite its best efforts , this gem won ’ t stay hidden for long .
Sous Sol is open Fri-Sun 5 pm-2 am .
64 ciao ! / dec / jan / two thousand fifteen