June 2017 | 121
Not in a Bradley Wiggins sort-of-way , granted , but in a �ritish nostalgia way . The film of a young lad �ushing his Hovis bread bike up the cobblestones of Gold Hill to the haunting music of Dvorak ’ s Symphony No 9 seared into the memory .
Visitors still whistle the tune as they take photos from the top of the hill . The advert has been voted Britain ’ s favourite of all time . And Ridley did well too – he went on to film Aliens and Blade Runner , among others .
There ’ s a reason the lad was pushing his break bike up the hill : it ’ s very steep – a punishing 16.2-degree angle , as cyclists find out every year in The �old Hill Challenge . Dozens more make the climb throughout the year , even the really steep bit at the top .
Now , there ’ s an even more rewarding way to cycle north Dorset : the county ’ s Food and Drink collective ( dorsetfoodanddrink . org ) has devised a series of cycling and food trails , one of which is a 20-mile circular loop of Shaftesbury and The Blackmore Vale . Dorset ’ s novelist son , Thomas Hardy , described it as The Vale of Little Dairies , in homage to the area ’ s milk and cheese heritage . abbey here . It means the views to Hampshire , Wiltshire and Somerset are stupendous , but it also means a tough climb up .
The route north takes you along New Road on to the B3091 road to Gillingham . Just 100m on from the junction , swing right on the bend on to Motcombe Road .
This is Route 253 of the National Cycle Network , and it meanders gently downhill on a well-made road into Motcombe . Turn right at the sign for the village shop onto The Street , past the village hall and three gloriously thatched cottages and you ’ ll find �otcombe Community Shop on your left . It ’ s under three miles from Shaftesbury .
Outside , there are tables , fruit and vegetables , pot plants and Purbeck ice-cream . Inside , on the counter , you might find a range of treats from �erry ’ s �akes of Shaftesbury , including stem ginger cookies and a bag of chilli cheddars (£ 2.95 ). The shop is the heart of the village , with 60 volunteers working shifts to keep it going . In 2010 , the �revious owners wanted to sell but couldn ’ t find a buyer . So the village bought it , raising £ 150,000 – including half the money through £ 1 shares . The rest came through grants , and the shop has since won a string of awards .
From the shop , the road rises slightly up Elm Hill , still on the NCN253 . Turn left at the sign to Gillingham . The hedges here are cut low , affording magnificent views towards �uncliffe �ood and Shaftesbury on its ridge .
The road passes The Coppleridge Inn , set in 15 acres of meadows and woodland , a good place to stay on the route . Take care to turn left at the crossroads where the road sign has rotted on three sides , leaving only Knoyles and Hindon signposted – basically , go in the opposite direction , bringing you into Gillingham .
Which is why it makes sense to start the ride at Turnbull ’ s deli and café , a 50m pedal from Gold Hill . Charlie Turnbull ( pictured with manager Carolyn Hopkins ) opened his shop in 2003 with the aim of being the best cheese shop in Dorset , possibly the UK . He stocks Dorset ’ s famed Blue Vinny , loves gorgonzola , judges cheese competitions , talks about cheese and gives tutored tastings . He also set up the annual Gold Hill Cheese Run .
Next door is the Grosvenor Arms Hotel , an old coaching inn dating from medieval times and recently refurbished . It ’ s a very comfortable place , full of leather sofas and antlers , and with a lovely courtyard . If you need some carbs the night before your journey , or on the morning of , then try the wood-fired �i��a .
Down the High Street is Swans Yard , the creative corner of the town ( good for gifts ) and home of The Ugly Duckling Café , which recently absorbed Swans Larder , a stockist of local produce . The café still sells a number of preserves from the region and is well worth investigating for saddlebag treats .
You ’ re on your way . The road north is the least precipitous but the return to Shaftesbury from the south is the steepest . It is a hilltop town , 215m above sea level . It ’ s why Alfred the Great chose to build a settlement and
The route picks up NCN 25 and takes you down the High Street . Handily , there is a well-run and friendly bike shop nearby called Wheels ( 01747 825757 ) on Station Road should you need running repairs or parts . The sho� doesn ’ t offer bike hire , which is a crying shame , as Gillingham train station is just 100m away . But , if you bring your bike by train , there ’ s the option of starting the route here .
Route 4
Shaftesbury & the Blackmore Vale
Explore the Blackmore Vale , described by Thomas Hardy as ‘ The Vale of Little Dairies ’
Slow right down with this tranquil ride through the Blackmore Vale . Still a very rural area of dairy farms , you can relax and enjoy the seemingly endless landscape of lively hedgerows , lush fields and … lots of cows !
The puff – or push – up to Shaftesbury is well worth the effort . Take a break to get your breath back on Gold Hill , with its vast views over the Vale . Then onto Turnbull ’ s cheese shop to appreciate all those dairy farms first hand , including our delicious Dorset Blue Vinny Cheese .
Want to know more about this areas cheese making heritage ? What Turnbull cheesemonger in Shaftesbury doesn ’ t know about cheese isn ’ t worth knowing !
SAY CHEEEESE The ‘ vale of the little dairies ’ of Hardy ’ s time still holds true today – the fertile clay soils produce the lushest of grasses which is perfect for dairy herds . The cheese heritage of the area is still celebrated with Shaftesbury ’ s Gold Hill Cheese Run in May and the Sturminster Newton Cheese Festival in September .
GOLD HILL Relive that evocative Hovis ‘ Boy on a Bike ’ advert or simply catch your breath and enjoy the view from this cobbled , super-steep little street . Find out about this Saxon towns long and colourful history at the Gold Hill Museum . goldhill . org . uk
BURSTING WITH LIFE Through spring and summer you will see ( and hear !) the hedgerows burst into life . Those hedges don ’ t just add to the unique look of this landscape , they are home , larder and safe corridor for countless birds , insects and small mammals .
JACK OF ALL TRADES The stone age barrow in Gillingham is evidence that people have lived in this most northerly town of Dorset for a very long time . Since then , it ’ s been home to a royal hunting lodge , silk spinning , brick making , printing , soap making and of course making CHEESE ! It is the inspiration for Hardy ’ s ‘ Leddenton ’ town and was also captured by artist John Constable .
DUNCLIFFE WOOD You ’ ll see this wooded hill as you cycle towards Shaftesbury . Thought to have inspired Thomas Hardy to write ‘ The Woodlanders ’, this wildlife rich woodland has ancient coppice stools said to be the oldest living things in Dorset . Follow the network of paths to explore and picnic . woodlandtrust . org . uk
DORSET BLUE VINNY CHEESE Once found in nearly every farmhouse in the county , production of this very Dorset cheese almost dried up during WW2 . Luckily Woodbridge Farm , on the edge of the Blackmore Vale , revived the cheese and have gone Blue Vinny mad . Not only can you enjoy this special cheese on a Dorset Knob , you can also try Dorset Blue Vinny soup , sausages , bread … and even chocolates and ice cream !
Then you can indulge in breakfast at the No1 Platform Café , winner of the Taste of Dorset best café 2016 , and providers of superb £ 3 bacon baps amongst many other options . It ’ s open from 5.30am on weekdays and , enterprisingly , you can ring and order in advance ( 01747 835547 ).