July 2017| 109
ROUTE 3 Bruichladdich – Port Charlotte – Kilchiaran
Portnahaven – Port Charlotte – Bruichladdich
I make no excuses for starting a second ride from
Bruichladdich it s always nice to start with a coffee and
a bun, or finish with the same.
The prevailing wind on slay, while it might seem to
come from pretty much every direction you’re headed
into, is actually southwest. Assuming this to be the case
more often than not, then you are likely to experience a
headwind most of the way to Portnahaven. Also bear in
mind that you will be cycling down the Atlantic Coast and
there is absolutely nothing (and I mean nothing!) to break
the wind before it hits the Islay coast. You may think
you’ve experienced headwinds before, but as the saying
goes, ‘you ain’t seen nuthin’ yet.’ Of course, yours may be
one of those unnaturally calm days. There may also be a
blue moon or rain going up!
Head south past Bruichladdich Distillery going towards
Port Charlotte, taking you past St Kiaran’s Church on the
right-hand side about mid-way along this five-kilometre
road. As you come into the village of Port Charlotte, the
Museum of Islay Life is up on the right, the Croft Kitchen
on your left before crossing the small bridge. Straight
past the Youth Hostel and the Islay Wildlife Centre on the
left-hand side, then ort Charlotte otel and along Main
Street. Keep well into the left, in case something comes
wide past the parked cars. Nobody wants to come off
before they’ve actually started.
On the right-hand side is the ochindaal otel ust before
the junction where we turn right up the hill towards the
ex-village hall, which, in years gone by, was also the
village school. The current school is in to the right. Carry
on past the hall – a bit of an uphill drag for a mile or two,
not too steep but not too at either. ass ort Charlotte
Waterworks on your right, still pedalling uphill a bit, but
when the road starts to venture downhill it’s a welcome
relief (unless you’re particularly keen on uphill cycles).
About a kilometre half-a-mile or so before reaching
Kilchiaran, the road heads seriously downwards.
If you haven’t already sussed, Islay is an agricultural
island, with farms dotted all across the landscape. With
these generally come herds of cattle and it might not
have escaped your notice that they seem to spend almost
as much time on the road as they do in the attendant
fields. And cattle never clean up after themselves. So, as
you’re hurtling down this 14 percent gradient and turn
the bend at Kilchiaran Farm, please be aware that you
are just as likely to run slap bang into cattle on the road
as you are to freewheel on past the ruin of Kilchiaran
Chapel on the right. Or a car heading towards Port
Charlotte. Or large quantities of mud and dung which
may have an adverse effect on braking efficiency. You
have been warned (though it is such a great downhill
that you may just be tempted to ignore all the above).
The track on the right ust prior to the chapel leads
up to a point known as ‘Granny’s Rock’ and there is a
piece of singletrack that will take you round the coast
(all downhill from the top) to Kilchoman and Machir
Bay. Also, atop the hill are the remnants of a ‘listening
station’ used during the war to track ships in the Atlantic.
However, only venture up this way if you are on a suitable
(mountain or cyclocross) bicycle.
Assuming we have not chosen this latter option, the
worst is yet to come. Having sped down a 14 percent
gradient, now you have to climb one, and if you can
muster the energy to look to your right, there are
wonderful views of Kilchiaran Bay and beyond (next stop
eastern Canada). Granted, if it’s a lousy day, you won’t
see much at all, though if that’s the case, you may not
have made it this far.
After such a heavy climb, the road levels out a bit, though
it doesn’t get any straighter. A few kilometres along the
road is a track leading to Tormisdale Croft, which still
indulges in many traditional forms of rural craft such as
spinning, knitting and carving. If you’ve time, it could be
a nice idea to drop by. Failing that, carry on towards the
south, past Cultoon farm on the left and the remains of
the mysteriou