HARBORING HAMBURG GUESTS
By Mason Jane M .
I ’ ve lived in four different cities based around large harbors , but none have so deeply identified with their waterway as Hamburg . It ’ s one of the things I love most about this city ! The nautical-themed flourishes that pop up in the most unexpected places are a constant reminder that this is a PORT , and when we show Hamburg off , we are all about the port . ( Disclaimer : our business is shipping-based , and many of our visitors are in shipping so … the simpatico enthusiasm is built in .) traditional Hamburg dishes done just right , served outdoors overlooking the river or indoors , which is cozy and stuffed to the gills with nautical memorabilia from their many years on the river . Actually , this is where we take everybody , tour or no tour . A lovely way to feel Hamburg as it so often feels itself — a city defined by its waterways past and present . Enjoy and stay dry !
We start in the Speicherstadt for a good look at how they used to do things in the harbor . The beautiful red brick buildings were ( and in some cases , still are ) warehouses for what comes in on the cargo ships . The Hafencity lies just behind them , and the International Maritime Museum there is a wonderful way to continue the theme .
And then it ’ s time for a harbor tour ! The best of them leave from right there in the Hafencity . Make sure you tour in a smaller boat , a Barkasse , that can fit down the canals . Bölow or Ehlers are both good companies to go with . And always go during low tide !— otherwise your boat can ’ t pass under the bridges and you ’ ll miss some great sights . Another good option is the Maritime Circle Line , the boat version of the hopon-hop-off city bus tours , but better .
On to Landungsbrücken . Walking there along the Zaha Hadiddesigned river walkway is a treat on a nice day . The Rickmer Rickmers is docked permanently on the route — another blast from Hamburg ’ s nautical past . Peek into the old Elbtunnel while you ’ re there , unless you get claustrophobic , because it ’ s shockingly narrow ! The general rule for the best experience is to walk down the stairs into the tunnel , then elevator back up .
You can catch a ferry from Landungsbrücken ( or walk ) to Övelgönne , the charming village-within-a-city that is a no-miss when the roses that practically smother the little houses are in bloom . Now you are in beach bar territory , the most iconic of which is the Strandperle . You can watch the sunset from here while sipping a Hugo ( the beachy Hamburg drink of choice ) and catch dinner at one of the many good seafood restaurants in the area … OR you can catch a ferry or water taxi and go up-river a bit to Teufelsbrück , where our very favorite restaurant , the Dübelsbrücker Kajüt rests on a barge on the river . It ’ s
Photo of Speicherstadt by Roman Kraft from Unsplash
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