Currents
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Spezia, for about $3.00 USD.
Vernazza's buildings, a mélange of soft ochres,
yellows, and pinks, whisper la dolce vita (the sweet
life). The unhurried pace belies a tragic flash flood, in
October 2011, which buried
Vernazza under thirteen feet of mud. An interna-
tional effort, aided by renowned architect Richard
Rogers (London's Millennium Dome), restored the
town's exterior character. Within residents' home
and hotels, everything is new, as interiors were
destroyed.
Tradition is visible in Vernazza, both in food and
wine, and in the observance of Feast Days. Portable
crosses, held in the harbor front church, Santa
Marherita [see photo], are prominent in religious
processions. St. Margaret, Vernazza's patron saint,
is feted on July 20.
Unlike glitzy Italian Riviera towns, such as
Portofino, Vernazza boasts neither large nor luxe
hotels. Instead, family-owned hotels and apartments
abound. Reserve early.
If lodging is scarce, consider staying in Genoa, a
little over an hour by train ($15 USD), or in Pisa, an
hour by train ($9 USD). Much of the Cinque Terra
closes down in winter; summers are broiling. But
don't put off a glimpse of Vernazza, a dreamscape.
Start packing. The world is waiting to meet you.
[The text and photograph represent the actual
travel experience of the writer.]
November 2017
11
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