Currents
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rounds. [See photo.] Trompe l’oeil delights both art
connoisseurs and the untutored, alike. Reality is
suspended; aesthetic fantasy prevails. Onlookers
are often heard laughing as they walk toward a false
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door, or try to peer out a fake window.
Palazzo Salis’s frescoes charm in ways similar to
those created by Mantegna for the Camera degli
Sposi (“bridal chamber”) in Mantua’s Ducal Palace.
But Palazzo Salis’ trompe l’oeil is ubiquitous, cover-
ing walls and ceilings.
The Family Salis, owners of the Palazzo since the
1600s, opened part of their ancestral home to the
public only in 2007. The frescoes, original and intact,
are peerless. The museum tour includes the
Palazzo’s ethereal gardens.
Visit Tirano in months other than in summer; ver-
ify hotel air conditioning.
Start packing. The world is waiting to meet you.
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[The text and photograph represent the actual
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