Currents Fall 2020 Vol 36, No. III | Page 22

BLACK FOREST & BROTHERS GRIMM BY BEATRICE K. Once upon a time, two people were stuck in Hamburg looking for a safe and reasonable way to vacation in 2020. One of them wanted to go trekking in Norway, and the other wanted to see the traditional 17th-century towns of Germany described by the Brothers Grimm in their fairy tales. The compromise: camping in the Black Forest. Fast forward to the happy ending… Peter and I spent seven days camping, hiking, boating, and touring through the enchanted woods and towns of the Black Forest in Baden-Württemberg, Germany. We had no set plan, just the idea to camp every night and a hope to stumble upon a witch’s cottage in the dark forest. Every morning we called ahead to a new campsite to book that night’s sleeping arrangement. Then we drove through fresh mist, on winding mountain roads, and across endless farm fields. We began our journey near Calw and Bad Wildebad, small northern towns in Baden-Württemberg famous for traditional Fachwerk architecture (half-timbered style). But rather than hike in the rain on day three, we spent the afternoon at one of the many famous thermal baths in Baden Baden. Thereafter, we drove through the twisting roads of the Schwarzwald Hochstraße, made camp near Freudenstadt, and enjoyed a long hike through the mountains the following day. We stayed two nights at Camp Langenwald; we highly recommend this site, as they offer modern and clean facilities and are adjacent to many biking and hiking trails. You can watch the sun rise and set over the mountains as you lie in your tent down in the valley. Traveling south to the land of cuckoo clocks, we wandered through charming towns and stayed near the two largest lakes in the Black Forest. The medieval city of Schiltach, “town of half-timbered houses, raftsmen, and tanners,” utterly enchanted us! And our GoPro, too. The ambiance feels like that of a Grimm fairy tale, from the centuries-old Fachwerk houses and cobblestone roads to the gushing river. Continuing down south, we spent two nights at the Titisee and Schluchsee, renting a boat each day and soaking up sun in the perfect 25 C weather. We ended our trip with an 11-hour haul from the deepest, darkest part of the Black Forest all the way to heatwaveblanketed Berlin in the north, but with a few more essential stops for sightseeing along the path back to grandma’s house. We swung through Freiburg, where we saw the Freiburger Münster Cathedral and the famous open market. Next we drove along the Badische Weinstraße, where car passengers can gaze upon vineyards and ruins. Switching to the A3 after Baden Baden, we stopped for lunch in the old town of Heidelberg, snapped the final GoPro videos, and followed the trail of breadcrumbs all the way home. Back to living happily ever after… Black Forest & Brothers Grimm 22 Special Theme: Venturing Forth