C&T Publications Eye on Fine Art Photography - June 2014 | Page 70

Surf's Up!
By Cindy Ackley Nunn

What would summer at the beach be without the sight of surfers, those neoprene clad knights of the waves braving rag dolling,
wipe-outs, sharks, and the ever present shoobies, sponges and shark biscuits?
Surfing is more than just about surf boards, wetsuits and board wax. It is a lifestyle with a tribal village feel to it, with its own code
of rules and ethics, as well as a pecking order, from the lowest Grommet to the highest Swami. Just like any society or group, they
also have their dark side in the form of surf gangs who claim turf and try to keep away “outsiders” through the use of threats,
intimidation, and at times, violence. The Wolfpak in Oahu, Hawaii, the Bra Boys in Sydney, Australia, and the Oxnard Shores Locals
of Oxnard, California are just a few of the surf gangs out there. Some refer to their actions as criminal, while the gangs themselves
call it “localism.”
Europeans first encountered the art of surfing in the Polynesian Islands when, in 1779, Captain James Cook sailed into these waters
on the HMS Endeavour. Joseph Banks, one of the crew members, described in his diary the natives using wooden boards to surf the
waves.
When missionaries form Scotland and Germany arrived in the islands in 1821 they forbade the Polynesian tradition of surfing, so
that by the end of the 19th century the art had almost completely disappeared, except for a handful of diehards who refused to give
up their cultural sport.
Sometime in the early 20th century Hawaiians began to revive the art and sport of surfing, and it soon became a great way to boost
tourism to the islands. Duke Kahanamoku was instrumental in reintroducing surfing to the rest of the world, but at that time the
surfing culture was centered in California, Hawaii and Australia.
That all changed in the 1960's with the release of the film Gidget, created by author Frederick Kohner, from novels which were
based on his teenaged daughter Kathy. Not long after its release the beaches were booming with teens learning this new fad, and
along with it came the new, upbeat sounds of such music groups as the Beach Boys and Surfaris.
Surfing remains a popular sport, and nowadays participation in competitions can mean big money, endorsements and fame for
those who wish to take it to a more professional level.
Check out National Geographic for the 20 best surf towns in the world: http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/trips/best-surftowns-photos/
Surfer Mag lists the best surf towns in America: http://www.surfermag.com/features/best-surf-towns-no-10/
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