CRAFT by Under My Host® Issue No. 18 Made in America: Part III | Page 102
W W W. C R A F T BY U M H . C O M
C O O KS H E LF
Best Coast Books
By Erin Jimcosky
Photography by Philip Jimcosky
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4 . Kachka A Return To Russian
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Cooking by Bonnie Frumkin
Morales and Deena Prichep • $40
1 . The Alaska From Scratch Cookbook by Maya Wilson • $40
This cookbook is a little difficult to classify; it has many influences. Since the Alaskan influence is
the strongest in this book, I think I’ll describe it as Wilson describes herself--a “West Coaster.” The
food in these pages is hearty and cozy but without being terribly heavy. As the reader, I feel like I am
getting part of the Alaskan experience along with the author, and I love it. As far as the recipes go,
Hunters Pie with Moose? Slow-Roasted King Salmon with Cucumber Dill Sauce? Kenai Burgers? Oh,
hell yes! Seriously, though, that Kenai cheese is delightfully indulgent, you should make it.
2 . Hawker Fare by James Syhabout and John Birdsall • $40
Hawker Fare is just plain awesome. Well, perhaps “plain” isn’t the best choice of words because
these recipes are anything but. Syhabout doesn’t dumb down cuisine for a Western audience, but
shows just how incredible dishes like Som Moo Tawn (fried fermented pork jowl) and Jaew Mang-
Da (water beetle chili dip) can be. I will always be indebted to Syhabout for introducing me to Som
Moo (Thai/Lao soured pork sausage). My husband grew up eating a (possibly) Polish version of
sausages pickled in vinegar, but these are at a whole different level with actual fermentation hap-
pening. My taste buds thank you, sir.
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The wall came down and nearly 30
years later, we get Kachka and a
rudimentary understanding of Soviet
foods from the satellites to the shiny
little mystery candies at the Russian
market. Recipes like Chebureki (little
hand pies) and Armenian Pumpkin
Dolmas fill this educational and in-
spired book. I even learned about en-
tertaining Soviet style. Now, I should
mention that this is not a stark book
filled with communist mandated
dishes but an exploration of the cul-
tures that made up the USSR and the
family history of Frumkin Morales,
the chef and owner of Kachka.
P.S. The Beet Gin is ridic. Give it a
whirl.
3 . Chinese Soul Food by Hsiao-Ching Chou • $25
Smacked Cucumber, Chili Oil, Hot and Sour Soup, and Simple Congee are just a small
sampling of the delicious Chinese home cooking this book serves up. The reader will
learn the ins and outs of everything from dumplings to the knife skills needed to make
the recipes. There is even a primer on soy sauce. If I can make one recommendation to
you, make the Green Onion Pancakes. They are extremely addictive.
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