WWW . CRAFTBYUMH . COM
rado , Puerto Rico . Alvarez has witnessed the highs and lows of Puerto Rico ’ s challenging economics . He grew sod for his landscaping business during the boom years , but when the recession hit , Puerto Rico was hit doubly hard , as the tax incentives for manufacturing had expired after fifteen years , and as he tells it , “ They packed up their bags and left .”
Alvarez decided it was time to reinvent , and he wanted to explore distillation with his son , Jose . Like Hawaii , Puerto Rico has the perfect climate for growing and harvesting sugarcane year-round , a huge advantage towards distilling agricole . With his landscaping and sod-growing experience , Alvarez was anxious to show tourists and locals alike that there could be alternatives to the molasses-built brands like Bacardi and Don Q which have been dominant on the island .
The economic collapse did have a few silver linings . Alvarez was able to buy property that included a house , which he envisioned as a visitor center , and the main building suitable for manufacturing . It included acreage to grow sugarcane directly behind the mill and fermentation hall . He bought boilers and other industrial manufacturing equipment from departing pharmaceutical companies for pennies on the dollar . He acquired pot stills from Hennessy after they discontinued 10 Cane Rum , a Trinidadian light rum that blended distillate from fresh cane juice and aged molasses . These were great opportunities in the face of huge challenges , yet they also made the project bigger and more complicated , or as Alvarez quotes a familiar Puerto Rican saying , “ The dwarf grew .”
In September of 2017 , San Juan Artisan Distillers were four weeks into the startup of their distilling and flavor trials when Hurricane Maria hit . They were without power and shut down entirely for five months . They are currently cleaning , repairing , and replanting . The initial devastation was exacerbated by what Alvarez describes as a massive exodus of workers . His determination and perseverance are impressive , but he and his son are now facing their next challenge ; looking for experienced people to help in their recovery .
The story of San Juan Artisan Distillers and Puerto Rico feels reminiscent of the industrial collapse of sugar mills in 19th century Martinique . Puerto Rico faces massive challenges in terms of infrastructure , bureaucracy , and maintaining a viable work force . Perhaps a hand-crafted , organic process celebrating their agriculture will be the kind of new growth that can ignite change and contribute to their rich cultural signature .
Wayne Curtis , an American authority on rum , contributing editor to The Daily Beast , and author of And a Bottle of Rum : A History of the New World in Ten Cocktails , is excited to see the investment and exploration by American craft distillers into an agricultural expression and traditional flavors .