Country Images Magazine North Edition November 2016 | Page 12

Our visitor who stayed for half an hour and then went to sleep. An armed guard accompanied us when ever we went ashore. 12 | CountryImagesMagazine.co.uk Cruising steadily north through the arctic ‘day’, our next port of call was a beach landing at Philippsøye, the largest island in the north of the Svalbard archipelago. Echoing Private Frazer of Dad’s Army, ‘it is a wild and lonely place’ where a lone Austrian trapper once spent several winters, living in the tiny cabin that is just about managing to stay upright. He wouldn’t have gone short of timber for the beach is littered with piles of logs washed down from Siberian rivers. No bears to be seen, but a huge pile of walruses seemed impervious to our presence. They must have been aware of us because on our way in they came right up to the Zodiacs, giving us suspicious sideways glances from tiny eyes set above long sharp tusks. Due to a heavy swell, getting off the island and clambering into pitching Zodiacs was more than a bit hairier than landing. After lunch we cruised steadily up to the ice edge at almost 82° north,18°east, our furthest yet, to Lågøya where we spotted more bears. Anchoring, we took to the Zodiacs and cruised slowly by in a wide circle, just offshore of two bears resting above the rocky beach. The animals became curious of our interest and wandered down to see what all the fuss was about, but fortunately came no nearer. End of Part One