Lichfield By
Brian Spencer
Over to our right as we drove down the A38 , the three graceful spires of Lichfield ’ s cathedral brought about a change of plan . As we had never been to Lichfield and were not in any hurry , we decided to make a diversion as Michelin Guides would have it , and spend a couple of hours exploring this historic city .
Even though it wasn ’ t early closing day , the city centre was almost deserted and we had no trouble finding parking space , which made us wonder , had we missed some unexpected disaster ? But no , according to a local we chanced to ask , the place is usually quiet mid-week ; even weekends don ’ t seem to attract all that many visitors . More ’ s the pity , because from the short time we spent there , Lichfield has plenty to offer , especially when one delves into its bygone history .
Although it is a city with around 32,219 population , technically Lichfield is classed as a civil parish , one of only eight in England with city status . Notable for its three-spired medieval cathedral , it was the birthplace of Samuel Johnson , compiler of the first authoritative Dictionary of the English Language . The city ’ s recorded history began when Chad of Mercia arrived to establish his Bishopric in 669AD . In 2009 , the Staffordshire Hoard , the largest find of Anglo-Saxon gold and silver metalwork , was found in a field to the south-west of Lichfield .
The city ’ s development was consolidated in the 12 th century when Roger de Clinton fortified the Cathedral Close , laying out the town in a street pattern that survives to this day . Lichfield ’ s heyday was in the 18 th century , when it developed into a thriving coaching city , serving routes between London , Birmingham and the North . This was a period of great intellectual activity , the city being the home of many famous people including Samuel Johnson , Erasmus Darwin grandfather of Charles Darwin , exponent of the theory of evolution and Anna Seward , eighteenth century romantic poet , known as the Swan of Lichfield .
The town centre with its varied selection of independent shops and small restaurants is built around its ancient market place where Samuel Johnson ’ s birthplace stands on one corner . Because of its importance as an ecclesiastical centre , industrial and commercial development has been limited , saving the original heart of the city , but without it looking ‘ twee ’. There are at least 230 listed buildings , mostly in the city centre .
Samuel Johnson ’ s birthplace stands on one corner of the ancient market place
Samuel Johnson was born on 18 th September 1709 at the home of his bookseller father and his wife Sarah . The white painted three-storied house stands in Breadmarket Street on a corner of the old market square , overlooking a statue of Britain ’ s first lexicographer – dictionary compiler . The house has been converted into a museum in memory of Johnson who was a man of many talents , being also an actor , poet and journalist . The house has been left very much as it was in his lifetime , with pride of place given to a collection of first editions of his Dictionary of the English Language , compiled in 1755 .
Johnson was something of a wit and his dictionaries are famous for the quirky entries he made ; for example the entry for oats reads as follows :
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