Country Images Magazine Derby Edition November 2016 | Page 11
The excitement of boarding the sturdy bright red
ship, the G-Expedition, our home for the next
eight days was heightened by boat drill and the
issue of our neoprene gum boots and arctic-wear
parkas, a garment perfectly designed for use in
high latitudes, but rather heavy duty for even the
severest Peak District winter. With re-enforced
bows capable of forcing its way through the ice
pack, the G-Expedition left the questionable
delights of Longyearbyen and sailed north,
past Prinz Karls Forland in order to check ice
conditions around eighty degrees north, beyond
the furthest tip of Svalbard.
When the Norwegian arctic explorer Nansen set
his tiny ship, the Fram, into sea ice somewhere
along the Siberian coast in an attempt to drift
with the current across the North Pole, countercurrents took the Fram southwards until he could
leave the ship, still stuck in ice, near Ny-Ålesund
and continue overland to send a message that
all was well. In recent years polar ice has still
blocked the sea around northern Svalbard, but
as we found later, it took a full day’s sailing
north in open water before coming into contact
with serious ice. All we saw was the occasional
growler, mini icebergs floating by, carved into
all manner of weird shapes. The land in this far
north western corner of Svalbard is named after
the Monacoan Prince Albert 1st and we turned
into remote Liefdefjorden (‘Love Fjord’) to reach
Monacobreen, a huge peak-surrounded glacier
flowing steadily to the sea. Here we had our next
excitement by boarding Zodiacs, rubber boats
driven by powerful outboard motors. Getting in
and out of them when the sea is bouncing up and
down takes more than a bit of practice, but no
one fell in – apparently life expectancy in arctic
water is all of ninety seconds!
journey out of the fiord that we saw our first bear,
a sow and her cub were moving steadily along the
ice-free shore. There has been a lot of publicity
about the plight of bears now that arctic ice is
retreating further north each summer. The pair
were too far away from us to see properly without
binoculars, but both looked quite healthy and
in fact the sow was reported to be almost fat. In
the past, bears caught seals, their principal diet,
by waiting next to a hole in the ice and catching
a seal as it came up for air. With the retreating
ice, seals can remain in open water and rest on
ice flows, but ice bears, (polar bears), appear to
have adapted their hunting skills by catching seals
when they are at rest. Certainly the next bear we
saw had succeeded in this method and appeared
to be enjoying a siesta after a long lunch, leaving
just a few morsels for a Glaucous Gull to chance
its luck.
This was our third day and it was soon after seeing
the feeding bear that we were visited by our nosey
interloper, and as we moved off a pod of at least
three blue whales cruised slowly by, the spouting
plume from their breath spraying high into the
air.
The largest of the Atlantic whales that were once
so easy to catch that they almost died out. The
breed is slowly restoring, but their numbers are
still well below those at the height of the cruel
whaling industry.
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Cruising along the foot of the glacier was not for
the faint-hearted, especially when huge lumps
of ice crashed down a matter of a few yards
away, each one causing a mini tsunami. Masses
of growlers, floating lumps of blue ice left over
from the crashing fall became a slight hazard, but
with a skilled pilot at the helm we got through.
Whenever the ice fell off the end of the glacier,
the point where it hit the sea became the focal
point of hundreds of Black-legged Kittiwakes
tog ether with Glaucous Gulls wheeling and
diving in a frenzy. Apparently they were feeding
on the thousands of young cod attracted to
plankton disturbed by the falling ice. In amongst
the kittiwakes were fulmars, skuas and arctic tern
building up their fat reserves before making the
fantastic journey south to the Antarctic. The
only mammal we saw was a grey seal sunning
itself on an ice flow.
Even though we remained on the Zodiacs,
returning to the G-Expedition meant paddling
through disinfectant, something we did on every
trip away from the ship, an impressive reminder
of the need to keep the pristine environment free
of outside contamination. It was during our
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