CosmoBiz Magazine JULY 2019 | Page 37

This type of extension also gets a lot of flack; if the seams aren’t tight enough it can cause a lot of shedding. If they’re too tight they can pierce the hair and cause breakage and eventually shedding. There is also an issue of thickness at the seam which can be caused by either the amount of hair at the edge of the amount of thread holding the hair together. If the weft is too thick it can hold water when washed and can cause bacteria growth; it also adds unnecessary bulk. Another place where bulk can accumulate is in short- er hairs. To prevent shedding, hair is folded and then sewn; the shorter ends left over from the fold can vary from half the length of the hair to just beneath the weft. While there is no true magic number where the length of these short hairs minimizes shedding there are aspects to look at. When the hair is long enough, and in most cases, this can only be done with synthetic, the hair can be folded in half so there are no short hairs at all. That method is the best for preventing shedding; however, with real hair, it’s often not possible to get a length that would facilitate that. While if the hair is folded too short it will shed easier; if it’s too long the ends will poke up through the rest of the hair. Aside from sewing, there are several other common methods including the looped weft. Looped wefts are very thin, very time consuming, and as it follows, often very expensive. To create a looped weft, each hair is individually looped and tied to a thin strand of thread. The time and effort involved means this style is fairly rare. Hand-tied wefts are another fairly rare method. Again the hair is attached manually in this method it’s done a few strands at a time. The hair is tied in bunches to the bunch next to it forming a thin strand of weft. The advantages of both of these methods are that they are often thinner and more flexible than the others. They can also be more fragile and aren’t as easy to put in as machine sewn wefts where the end can be cut without much worry. Ventilation, or hand knotting, is also done onto nets or onto silicone sheets which is the most common way of creating tape-in extensions. In this method, each hair is individually attached making it very secure. One of the newest methods of creating a weft is to attach the hair to a thin strip of silicone tape. It was piloted by Amekor, with their Smart Weft in their Vivica Fox Hair Collection. This method allows the weft to be very secure and very thin. It’s advertised as perfect for those who work out frequently because it puts up with frequent washing. Thanks to the silicone, water is unable to penetrate the weft, meaning wearers no longer have to worry about bacteria or discomfort. This advancement also allows wefts to lay flatter, making the overall look less noticeable. Unlike with sewn wefts there is no need for the shed preventing fold and resulting short hairs, meaning there is no added bulk in that regard either. Perfecting the weft is no easy task; it has to be thick enough to hold the hair tightly, not so tight that it breaks, not so loose that hair sheds, so when you see a good weft, know that it took someone a hefty amount of time and effort to make it. The right weft can make all the difference when it comes to convenience and its ability to look real. With that in mind, it’s important to note the age-old saying, “You pay for what you get,” good extensions are going to be more expensive because of the time put into them. 37