City Cottage July 1 | Page 30

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Making

Mozzarella

Paul Peacock clutters up the kitchen with whole milk on a quest to make moreish mozzarella ...
Mozzarella is not a difficult cheese to make , really . You might have a number of trial runs to get your technique just right . But to be honest , even your first attempt will be really good , and since the whole point of this cheese is to cook it , you will find the results most satisfactory . Mozzarella is a bit of a journey , is great fun , and you get a great product .
Essentially , you will be lining up the protein molecules to give the cheese a stringy texture , and that ’ s all there is to it . In the old days this was achieved by kneading the curds over and over , but at home we help the process using citric acid .
“ The structure of mozzarella has its molecules lined up to give it the characteristic
‘ stringy ’ texture , now achieved by using citric acid rather than kneading .”
It is said that mozzarella used to be made using buffalo milk , but this has never been wholly true , and similar cheeses have been made from cow and sheep milk , although I don ’ t know of an instance where goat ’ s milk has been used . That said , please let us know if you make goat mozzarella , we ’ d love to hear from you .
How to make Mozzarella
Makes 3 balls
• 1 portion of mesophillic starter
• 5 litres ( 1 gallon ) whole milk
• 6 drops rennet
• 1 level teaspoon citric acid crystals
• 5 g salt ( 1 level teaspoon )
Some people dissolve all the citric acid in water , some sprinkle all the citric acid directly in the milk , others go half and half . If you do use water , make sure it is un-chlorinated , which you can do by leaving tap water to stand overnight . The chlorine and fluorine , which interferes with the citric acid , evaporates slowly from the water .
What do you need for mozzarella ?
• A large pan , at least ten litres ( two gallons )
• A good thermometer
• A stirring spoon
• A slotted spoon
• Muslin
• A long knife for cutting curds
• A bowl
The ability to sterilize the equipment is important . You should be as scrupulously clean as possible .
Using starter culture
For mozarella , strictly you do not need to use starter , but I find you get a creamier cheese , and better setting with the rennet . A small sachet makes a lot of cheese , so add your culture to a half litre ( one pint ) of milk , and then leave for a few hours . Simply pour this cultured milk into an ice cube tray and freeze . When you are making cheese , add a milky ice cube to the milk and leave at room temperature to ripen overnight .
Don ’ t use too much citric acid , and dissolve in a little water .
Add the citric acid and stir constantly for five minutes . Do not add too much , the milk will curdle . You will probably have several attempts at this to get it just right .
Add too much you get lumpy porridge like milk which will not set with rennet .
Best to start with a little , and then over the next few batches , increase . Find exactly the right level for you , your milk etc .
You will find that , using too little citric acid will mean the cheese doesn ’ t stretch so well . But no matter , it ’ s still great on pizza . Next time , add a tad more and see how it changes the feel .