Ciao! Summer 2022 Ciao! Summer 2022 | Page 29

CORRIENTES
Neighbourhood ........ Exchange Address .... 137 Bannatyne Ave Phone .............. 204-219-5398 Entrées .................... $ 11- $ 36 ciao ! reviews
Corrientes — named after the bustling avenue in Buenos Aires renowned for its pizza joints , cafes , bars and bookstores — wears the crown for the best Argentinian pizza in this town .
The specialty here is Argentina ’ s version of Italy ’ s finest export . Where chef / owner Alfonso Maury grew up , half the population comes from Italian descendants , so it makes sense that pizza is such a big deal . In fact , in Buenos Aires , pizzerias rival parrillas . Entering the stylish Exchange District space , diners might forget they ’ re not in one of these South American pizza parlours , surrounded by poster-sized photographs displaying pizza café culture .
The types of pies served have expanded beyond Naples ’ origins . Argentinian-style pizza is nuanced , worth getting to know . Topping combos incorporate corn , zucchini , hearts of palm and chopped hard boiled eggs . One bite easily creates converts , the interplay of bitter , sweet and vegetal flavours sparking a culinary awakening for even the most ardent pepperoni-lover .
Crispy crust pizzas are robust and hearty . The menu ’ s other focus is traditional empanadas — another dish ubiquitous in South America — which also show the kitchen ’ s prowess with dough . Bechamel and spinach prove to be as winning a combination atop tomato sauce and smothered in cheese on a pizza crust as enveloped in an empanada . Bechamel delicately supports the mash of greens , adding sweet creaminess to each bite . The same luscious sauce is added to a corn mixture accented with salty bacon , caramelized onions and hot oozing mozzarella .
A classic pizza pairing of bacon and tomato , christened the Canadian Flag , delights with each salty-sweet bite . For a more “ Corrientes Avenue ” classic , try the Banchero . Straight up melty mozzarella between two layers of dough , topped with raw onions , proves to be perfection .
Mixtures of smoked and grilled meats , veggies , pickles and melted cheeses pack layers of flavour ( literally ) between hefty slices of ciabatta , too .
It ’ s the smart and quirky mash-ups of ingredients that win fans at this clever spot , whether layered in a crusty bun , on top of pizza , or enwrapped completely in pastry as an empanada . Corrientes pushes our palates forward , in style .
INFERNO ’ S BISTRO
Neighbourhood .... St . Boniface Address .... 312 Des Meurons St Phone .............. 204-262-7400 Entrées .....................$ 14- $ 29
Enter Inferno ’ s Bistro through a hedge-cut archway leading to a florally festooned patio nestled between two buildings . The lively setting vibrates , inside and outside , with the energy of diners showing staunch support for a beloved eatery emerging from COVID times .
Discerning diners from all parts are drawn to the restaurant ’ s relaxed yet smart atmosphere and imaginative menu . Chef Sean McGillvray helms the kitchen , while chef-owner Fern
Kirouac oversees all matters here and across the street at his sweetheart ice creamery , Dug and Betty ’ s .
The sleek , art-filled dining room is spread over two floors , and a predominantly jazz playlist keeps the vibe cool on the nights local musicians aren ’ t providing a serenade .
A long list of daily specials , in keeping with bistro style , have long been de rigueur at Inferno ’ s . Experienced staff wax poetic with descriptions , shamelessly tempting with every dish .
Diners in step with tapas culture are rewarded with an outstanding choice of shareables from which an entire meal could be drawn . These range from French classics like prawns au pernod and escargots to globally inspired potstickers filled with duck confit .
The menu is a gravy lover ’ s dream , sauces adorning entrees left and right . Moules et frites , swimming in lusciousness , is a timeless signature of the bistro that shouldn ’ t be missed . Cream and Roquefort coat soft mussels in a classic rich French style , while another bowl steeped with chile peppers , ginger and lemongrass coconut broth infuses Thai-inspired flavour .
There are plenty of bistro-style big plates too . You can be sure of any recipe featuring braised lamb shank here . Jarret d ’ Agneau , sauced in a maple balsamic reduction , makes a Canadian statement . Saumon Champagne testifies to chef Sean ’ s creative talent , pairing tangy sorrel leaves with seared salmon and champagne cream .
The dessert case is a sweet dream , displaying rows of tortes , pies , cheesecakes and slices . Opt for the crème brûlée du jour , and you are sure to get a surprising and delightful flavour , perfectly infused into the custardy dessert .
ciao ! / summer / two thousand twenty-two 27