NÉ DE LOUP
Neighbourhood.. River Heights Address........ 1670 Corydon Ave Phone.............. 204-487-1529 Entrées.................... $ 21- $ 65
Classic French cooking gets a confident new expression at Né de Loup, chef Scott Bagshaw’ s restaurant in the River Heights space that once housed Enoteca. Bagshaw’ s affection for French technique is evident throughout a menu of small plates intended for sharing. Here, classic preparations leave room for a little play.
A generous stack of wild prawn rémoulade, flecked with pickle, caper and radish, catches the eye before the first bite arrives at the table. Brown-butter-toasted brioche gives the sweet prawn a warm,
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buttery base, while the pickled elements cut through with brine and tang.
French comfort food has always understood the appeal of a good sauce, and the pastas, laden in cream and wine infusions show off this ideology. Rabbit ragout, fragrant of thyme and red wine, form a dark, savoury coating for the pasta, with Parmesan rounding out the dish. The meat’ s delicate savoury depth holds its own against the richness of the sauce.
The fried chicken remains one of the kitchen’ s enduring signatures, dazzling loyal fans and as much a newcomers. Its ridged crust gives way to tender meat, while crème fraîche and Osetra caviar add coolness, salt and richness— a touch of culinary mischief that gives the dish an unexpected flourish.
Country cooking gets a handsome presentation in the beef cheek
Bourguignon, served in a miniature copper casserole with bacon, mushrooms and pommes purée tucked alongside the meltingly tender beef. The potatoes absorb the braising juices, making this defining classic French dish as much about the sauce as the cheek itself.
Dessert keeps the conversation between tradition and invention going. End the meal with cheese, cake or a bronzed Basque cheesecake, creamy at the center, which gets a bright lift from tart sour cherries jubilee.
Né de Loup knows what makes French cuisine enduring: technique, richness and the pleasure of a table gathered around good food. Plates move easily around the table, shifting the meal between rich, bright, crisp and creamy. Its creative impulse comes through in the details, giving familiar ideas new shape without losing their soul.
32 ciao! / oct / nov / two thousand twenty-six