inthekitchen
in the kitchen worth it. “People always say
we should move into something bigger, but
then we’d lose the magic.”
Navigating a kitchen with just a single
burner and one-pan oven presents a
daily challenge for the chef, one he
embraces wholeheartedly: he swears
that it spurs creativity, and in some
cases, even improves quality. A lot of
planning goes into everything—because
it has to. Searing, a go-to technique for
chefs, can’t be executed because it would
smoke out the restaurant, and there are
days when up to nine sauces need to be
made, some taking an hour each. But
limitations present opportunities; Pajak
taps into lesser-used techniques to craft
imaginative dishes, such as the French
method mi-cuit for broiling scallops.
Like many Winnipeg chefs, Paja k
ingredients (a single sea scallop can cost
upwards of $3) but Pajak manages to
keep costs down with his renaissance-
man mentality. Mushroom stems are
dehydrated and powdered to add rich
f lavour to sauces, anything that can be
turned into vinegar is, and herbs grown
on the patio are ground into a house
seasoning.
Since guests are able to order the whole
menu for $107, every dish is meticulously
designed to work together in a specific
progression. “You want a tasting menu
to be like a roller coaster,” Pajak states,
pointing out that there is no repetition of
ingredients, keeping diners on the edge of
their seats for each flavour that rolls out.
He’s obsessed with tartar, crudo and
anything torched, showcasing exquisite
preparation and always letting the star
“People always say we should move into something
bigger, but then we’d lose the magic.”
g raduated f rom t he Cu l i na r y A r t s
program at Red River College, but it was
at Lobby on York, brushing shoulders
with acclaimed chefs, where he really
got hooked on f ine dining. “It was
really cutthroat and amazing,” he says,
reminiscing about the exhilarating and
talent-filled atmosphere.
There, he worked his way up to chef de
cuisine before switching gears, completely
immersing himself in Italian cooking
at Brooklynn’s Bistro and Teo’s. For five
years, he learned from family cook and
Nonna, Elena Colosimo. “Italians are the
best at repurposing things,” Pajak says,
explaining that she taught him how to be
resourceful, canning his own tomatoes,
pickling and finding a way to maximize
the value of every ingredient coming
through the door. “You can do almost
anything from scratch.”
Back in the day, restaurants would
cut ingredients into perfect cubes and
toss the rest away, but with prices (and
waste) rising, it’s not sustainable. At Close
Co, dishes are prepared with top notch
12
ciao! / oct/nov / two thousand nineteen
ingredient shine. Sometimes, simplicity
is key. When asked if he ever feels like
an artiste as he delicately dresses a
towering mushroom pintxo with petals,
he laughs. “I try not to let it go to my
head.” Though ambitious, his food is
approachable for those who consider fine
dining unchartered waters, yet exciting
for seasoned palates. His rule : 50 %
adventurous, 50% familiar or relatable.
Close Company offers a distinctly
d i f ferent ex per ienc e i n t h i s c it y ’s
exploding restaurant scene. “We love
Winnipeg, but we want to play on a
global scale,” Pajak says. In New York and
Toronto, spaces are inherently smaller,
packed on street corners, in basements
and second f loor walk-ups—a concept
this tiny neighbourhood locale embraces
thoroughly.
There’s something magnetic about
sharing close quarters with total strangers
who may not be strangers by the end of
the night, like a party you accidentally
walked in on. With Chef Dustin playing
host, you know it’s going to be a good one.