ciao! reviews
satisfying. Servers may no longer
come bearing chocolate covered cher-
ries, but a rich chocolate and hazelnut
pate with honey sponge toffee, cour-
tesy of the rooftop bees, shows off the
perfect combination of hospitality
and local flavour.
VG Restaurant is open for break-
fast and lunch daily 6:30 am-2 pm, for
dinner Fri and Sat 5:30 pm-9 pm.
inferno's on academy
Neighbourhood . . . . . . Academy
Address. . . . . . 414 Academy Rd
Phone . . . . . . . . 204-475-7400
Entrées . . . . . . . . . . . . $15-$22
When InFerno’s Bistro on Des
Meurons opened in 2003, Winnipeg
was introduced to the delights of
French bistro cooking. The elegance
of French cuisine in the comfort-
ing style and price point of a cozy
bistro was such a winning formula
that it eventually spawned a second
location. Now, five years after chef
Fern Kirouac’s French classics were
transplanted onto River Heights soil,
comfort food-meets-nouvelle cuisine
draws diners with tastes that please as
well as challenge the palate.
The scene is lively – downright
vibrant even early in the week, with
a bustling crowd, bold modern art on
the walls, and friendly servers. Music,
a highlight of this neighbourhood
spot, brings in appreciative diners. On
nights when the tunes aren’t live, pro-
motional offers on mussels and appies
ensure an enthusiastic dining room.
The kitchen does its part in enter-
taining, too. Small and big plates are
offered, along with a first rate line up
of sandwiches and salads. Seared tuna
with mayo and unagi sauce is folded
into a croissant for a twist on typical
lunchtime fare. For the carb averse, try
tuna in a salad dressed with cashew
vinaigrette.
The menu is a gravy lover’s dream.
Lemon caper beurre blanc, Dijon
cream, roasted red pepper, Saigon, and
fresh tomato sauces adorn entrees left
and right. Signature moules frites offer
still more choices. The Madagascar
bowl covers perfectly plump mussels
with a sweet and spicy cognac green
peppercorn cream. Thank the house
for complimentary warm bread to
sponge it all up.
Diners in step with tapas culture are
rewarded with an outstanding choice
of small plates from which an entire
meal could be drawn. Cauliflower
and three cheese ravioli is a stand
out, atop a housemade tomato sauce
that is light, fresh and slightly sweet.
Mediterranean salmon tartare is a
winner. Subtle saltiness of feta zings
through each dip of pita into this
Greek-inspired rendition.
On the other hand, there are bistro
style big plates: Inferno’s legendary
braised lamb shank, veal schnitzel,
Arctic char and pickerel are all alluring
options. Zucchini noodle pasta is as
delicious as it is righteous. Long cuts
of zucchini-turned-linguine are fin-
ished with walnuts, goat cheese, and
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32
ciao! / oct/nov / two thousand seventeen