THE BEST
MACHINES
FOR THE
BEST
COFFEE
Always available at d.a. Niels
ciao! reviews
handled here, incorporated into
antipasti, pastas, and entrées. A
salad of squid and shaved celery is
fresh and lemony, slick with fruity
olive oil. Flaky, perfectly cooked
salmon is topped with a classic red
sauce, singing with the unexpected
acidic sweetness of fresh tomatoes
and briny notes from puréed green
olives.
Downtown proximity makes
the dining room ideal for filling
lunches, and plans are in the works
for daytime offerings like pizzas and
paninis fresh from the wood fired
oven.
Food fads reward novelty, but
spots like Dona Onesta show the
benefits of fidelity to tradition. A
satisfying slab of light-as-air, coffeesoaked tiramisu is proof enough of
that.
Ristorante Dona Onesta is open
for lunch Mon-Fri 11:30 am-2 pm,
for dinner Mon-Sat 5 pm-10 pm.
THE GROVE
Neighbourhood. . . River Heights
Address. . . . . . . . 164 Stafford St
Phone. . . . . . . . . 204-415-3262
Entrées. . . . . . . . . . . . . $12-$20
485 Berry Street
(between Silver and St. Matthews)
ph: 204-953-2345
danielsgourmetkitchenware.ca
38
ciao! / oct/nov / two thousand sixteen
Pub grub—from gourmet burgers
to truffle fries—has enjoyed ongoing
popularity since The Grove opened
its doors. In 2011, this publication
praised the casual spot as one of
the year's best new restaurants for
its elevated menu; since then, it has
continued to impress by giving eager
diners ample opportunity to pair fine
dining panache with a pint.
Inspired by British pubs, the
restaurant smoothly incorporates
specials from across the pond into
items like curry-sauced fish and chips
and gussied-up bangers and mash.
Still, the archetypal English tavern is
less of a literal influence and more of
a blueprint for the kind of convivial
neighbourhood atmosphere cultivated here. Adding shepherd’s pie to
the menu does not a neighbourhood
pub make; a cozy, warm, friendly
vibe, genuine personal touches, and
a careful blend of clever gastronomy
and mass appeal place this spot at a
cut above.
On any given night, the simple,
light green-hued space, centred
around a well stocked bar, fills with
a diverse cross section of diners from
sports fans to family outings. Burgers
and sandwiches with creative toppings are popular picks, as are the
filling, crispy-edged pizzas that serve
as an homage to the longtime former
occupant of the building (Tubby’s
pizza).
Creative appetizers are highlights, a
bargain at casual pub prices. Soft, fatty
slices of pork belly beneath a crispy
sear pair perfectly with a roasted pineapple gel that adds tropical sweetness.
Tangy pickled shallots and jalapeños,
a funky hint of miso, and a scattering
of crisp-fried pork skin round out the
dish. Seared scallops share a plate with
grassy pea purée and refreshing and
herby watermelon and mint salsa.
Mains deliver low key elegance
that goes well with a crisp house
lager. Spicy steak tacos get a colourful
topping of avocado, grapefruit, and
cilantro, with a drizzle of habanero
sour cream packing some serious
heat. A buttery slab of salmon under
sweet passion fruit glaze is well
appointed over tangy cabbage slaw
and a rich Japanese tare broth smacking of soy salinity.
A plate of housemade mini donuts
is a fun finish, puffy as clouds and still
warm under a drizzle of maple whiskey glaze and a shower of crumbled
bacon. It is the dedication in these
details that show that this kitchen
isn’t just looking to impress, but to
make friends.
The Grove is open Sun-Wed
11 am-midnight, Thu-Sat 11 am-late.