Ciao May/June 2022 | Page 25

d + a café
Neighbourhood ......... St James Address ....... 1485 Portage Ave Phone .............. 204-774-8710 Entrées .................... $ 12- $ 24
Dining establishments appearing in notable destination stores dates back to the early 1900s , when swanky department stores began using on-site dining as a savvy tactic : offer sustenance to keep energy levels high and customers spending . Today , luxury and lifestyle brands are cashing in on their cache , with Insta-friendly treats like key lime pie martinis at Tommy Bahama or robin ’ s egg petit fours at Tiffany ’ s Blue Box Cafe adding to the draw of brick-and-mortar spending in a digital world .
Winnipeg ’ s new furniture store eatery , d + a at EQ3 , follows this timeless tradition . Here , chic cafe fare shares square footage with beautiful furnishings , decor and lighting available for sale in the showroom .
The cafe , subtly separated by a wall of sheer drapes , beckons with its sumptuous designer fabrics and posh seats . A row of oversized dining tables amply distanced in front of a walllength sofa makes a statement and flexes its spaciousness . Bold abstract art hangs on a white wall and bright natural sunlight washes over everything in a grand room celebrating unforced luxury .
Along with the elevated setting , d + a cafe is a culinary destination in and of itself . The menu is succinct but offers variety , nodding to its notable partnership with Winnipeg chef , Mandel Hitzer of deer + almond . While Hitzer is not doing the actual cooking , his signature playfulness and mastery marks each dish . ciao ! reviews
Iterations of sandwiches appear familiar yet deliver unexpected delights . A jovial tuna sandwich — far from the sad cafeteria offering the name might conjure up — flaunts vibrant flavours imparted from pesto , peppery arugula , salty olive tapenade and seared ahi-grade fish . Yellowfin tuna is also presented as tartare laced with sesame seeds , green onions and creamy avocado and accompanied by wonton chips .
A selection of salads play on popular favourites , too . A re-interpretation of chicken Caesar pairs radicchio with panko-crusted chicken and tart apple slices . Black garlic dressing and salty Manchego balance the bitter leaves and punctuate each bite . Soba noodle salad offers a hefty medley of fresh leafy greens , veggies and seeds that provide varieties of crunch to the soft soba . Piquant red curry vinaigrette secures this healthful bowl ’ s novel status .
Dessert and luxe coffees end the experience in proper fashion . Whether visiting early or late in the day , d + a ’ s café makes a perfect pit stop for design-conscious shoppers — and worth seeking out for anyone loving fun flavours . d + a at EQ3 is open Mon-Sat 11 am-7 pm , Sun 11 am-6 pm .
BISTRO ON NOTRE DAME
Neighbourhood ......... West End Address ... 784 Notre Dame Ave Phone .............. 204-691-1515 Entrées .....................$ 14- $ 29
Winnipeg ’ s West End is the most culturally diverse neighbourhood in the city , rich with eateries that serve cuisine inspired by the far-flung corners of the world . Two short years ago ,
Bistro on Notre Dame added Manitoba regional style to the area , focusing on the province ’ s basket of ingredients to build its menu of comfort dishes .
Chef owner Dean Herkert ’ s commitment to all things local is notable in the space ’ s interior design as well as the menu . Inside an underwhelming exterior , guests step into a lovely dining room furnished with modern flair . Reclaimed barn boards from Morden , Manitoba , upholstery accented with leather and bare filament bulb fixtures hint at rustic cabin chic .
The menu surprises too , offering nearly limitless choice when other restaurants are cutting back . Kick off the local love with a cocktail of Manitoba made spirits and bitters and syrups crafted on site .
Some patrons come for the familiar comforts of soups , burgers and the pleasure of a kale Caesar laced with smoked Arctic char . Others are drawn to hearty breakfasts borrowing traditions from the Deep South of the United States — six varieties of waffles offer a range of profiles to pair with fried chicken .
Apples , carrots and pecans are added to ‘ carrot cake ’ waffles , while the bacon and jalapeño variety ’ s fluffy batter is boldly smoky and piquant . The chicken ’ s pecan coating puts a twist on the deep-fried favourite .
Soups and salads reflect the kitchen ’ s penchant for flavour mash ups , like a silky corn chowder perked up with smoked corn and onions . A not-so- ’ 70s Waldorf salad takes creative liberty by adding colourful pops of oranges and dried berries to apples , nuts and mixed greens . A dollop of house-made ricotta and poppyseed vinaigrette lighten up the traditional mayo dressing .
ciao ! / may / jun / two thousand twenty-two 23