ciao! reviews
SYDNEYS AT THE FORKS
Neighbourhood. . . . . . The Forks
Address. . 215-1 Forks Market Rd
Phone. . . . . . . . . 204-942-6075
Entrées. . . . . . . . . . prix fixe $48
At this point in the fine dining
landscape it seems the white tablecloth
may be going the way of the dodo
bird. The opulent dining out fashions
of yesteryear have been upended
by a new wave of rabblerousing
chefs swapping tableside flames for
open kitchens, candlelit tables for
communal benches, white china for
rough-hewn wooden platters.
While Sydneys at the Forks was
never among the old guard, it has
led Winnipeg’s fine dining scene
and guided our palates for more
than a decade. Upon opening in
2004, owner/Executive Chef Michael
Schafer's table d’hôte restaurant was
heralded as one of the city's best
places to dine; in 2016, after a recent
revamp of the menu, format, and
interior, we can safely say: Sydneys
remains on top.
The trend toward rustic fare has
been smoothly incorporated into the
menu, with a selection that blends the
mix-and-match spirit of small plates
with classic table d’hôte elegance.
Until the recent changes, diners
were served a 5 course prix fixe. Now,
the meal has been pared down to 3
courses, though decisions remain difficult with 3-6 potential apps, entrées,
and desserts from which to choose.
Regulars missing those extra two
plates now peruse an hors d’oeuvres
menu, a collection of flavourful bites
that display chef Michael Robin’s
prowess and playfulness, like the
earthy coins of duck encased in a crisp
fried crust that parade out under the
winking name “McDuckettes”. Plump
shrimp flavoured with garlic and chile
are another sensational way to whet
the appetite, languishing under a
ribbon of melon and sliced jalapeños.
These finger foods are available in the
restaurant’s lounge, as well, for those
try-before-you-buy types not ready to
commit to 3 courses.
Diving into a full meal is easy, especially once presented with a plate of
beets caramelized to complex depth
by the char of a grill. A bright pestolike spinach puree and a scattering of
feta and candied walnut highlight the
veggie’s sweet notes. Alternatively, a
silky coral pool of lobster bisque amps
up the indulgence. A bite sized croque
monsieur topped with golden caviar
completes the dish.
While hors d’oeuvres and appies
give the kitchen leeway to play with
wild flavours, quality ingredients
and technical know-how shine in the
entrée selection. Perfectly executed
steak in a savoury jus is a prime
example, as is the seafood ratatouille,
a delectable twist on 'peasant food'.
Delicate fresh clams, pike, and lobster
meld with spiced chickpeas and carrots in a smooth broth singing with
floral notes of white wine.
Midday meals retain complex flavour and curated ingredients, but in
applications decidedly down to earth.
Comfort food cravings are welcomed,
though you may find your burger
smeared with foie gras.
The restaurant's recent renos have
seen servers trade starched white for
mismatched business casual, while the
previously understated walls now pop
with bright hues. Local ceramics give
a rustic touch to the kitchen’s pristine
plating.
While the restaurant has made
modern updates, there is perhaps
no more classic end to a meal than
tapping a spoon through perfectly
glassy crème brûlée – a joy that even
the most fad-focused diner will
appreciate.
Sydneys At The Forks is open for
lunch Tue-Fri 11:30 am-2 pm, for
dinner Mon-Sat 5 pm-12 am.
BUFFALO STONE CAFE
Neighbourhood. . . . . Fort Whyte
Address. . . . . . 1961 McCreary Rd
Phone. . . . . . . . . 204-989-8370
Entrées. . . . . . . . . . . . . . $8-$14
Surrounded by towering trees,
grassy fields and a serene lake, the
view from Buffalo Stone Café in
FortWhyte Alive is easy on the eyes.
A 30-minute drive from downtown Winnipeg leads adventurers
to a breakfast and lunch only spot
housed in 600-acre nature preserve
and recreation centre FortWhyte
Alive. Prairie wilderness, trails,
nature exhibits and activities like
canoeing and kayaking await.
On sunny days, tableside windows score a view of a shimmering
lake. Tables decorated with potted
plants and bright blooms bring the
outdoors in.
The casual counter service makes
it easy and quick to fuel up for a day
of exploring. Start with self-serve
soups, like earthy lentil and beet.
Bright carrots swimming in clear
broth add vibrance.
Nods to the region are abundant
on the veggie and bison heavy menu.
Elements of the prairie are reflected
in the dishes that chefs Kelly Cattani,
Erica Reimer and Kelly Andreas craft
with purpose and care. Diversity
Food Services, the organization
responsible for dishing out nutritious and sustainable food at the
University of Winnipeg, now shows
its commitment to sourcing local
and organic here, with produce
grown on FortWhyte Farms.
The menu features all day breakfast favourites like eggs, toast and
bacon. Cake lovers will enjoy banana
bread French toast. This twist on a
breakfast classic hides thickly sliced
pieces of banana bread underneath a
generous dollop of whipped cream,
ciao! / june/july / two thousand sixteen
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