inthekitchen
rustic
gastronomy
Chef Sean McKay blends classic cuisine
with modern tastes and flair
by Joelle Kidd
In a thin prep kitchen tucked behind The Mitchell Block’s second
floor lounge, chef Sean McKay emerges from a creaky shoebox of a
wooden elevator – one of the quirks of doing business in a building
constructed in 1887. He gamely brandishes a container of glowing
orange egg yolks set in a bed of kosher salt.
In a few days, these curing yolks will be dehydrated and shaved
over plates, imparting a buttery, saline richness. It is just one of the
many culinary concoctions that chef Sean is cooking up inside his
Exchange District enclave.
The Mitchell Block is a young restaurant, only 2 years old, but
McKay’s love of finding new tastes and ingredients stretches back to
his youth. Growing up in a military family that moved often, he first
discovered his skills in the kitchen as a teenager living in Belgium.
While the rest of his family left for work or school, Sean would
jump on his motorbike, skip class, and ride around the Belgian
countryside. As he recalls the story with a grin in the elegant dining
room of The Mitchell Block, it’s hard to believe this affable chef ever
had a rebellious streak.
Sean had a plan to redirect his parents’ suspicions about
his activities, however. His daily rides brought him past country
markets, and the budding gourmand would pick out beautiful, fresh
ingredients to turn into the evening meal. Dazzling with delicious
dinners, as it turned out, became an effective way to distract mom
and dad from the missed classes.
Still, cooking remained a hobby until McKay moved back to
Winnipeg, where his family had lived during his junior high years.
14
ciao! / june/july / two thousand sixteen