ciao! reviews
AMSTERDAM TEA ROOM
Neighbourhood . . . . Exchange
Address . . .211 Bannatyne Ave
Phone . . . . . . . 204-295-7728
Entrées . . . . . . . . . . .$10-$18
The Dutch have a term loosely
translated as a cozy, relaxed feeling
or an overall sense of well-being and
conviviality. A person, place or even
a time can be described as gezellig.
Amsterdam Tea Room epitomizes
this concept, with brick walls, dark
wood fl oors and friendly chatter wel-
coming friends new and old.
Start a Dutch culinary voyage
with a tea-based cocktail, cold or
hot. These posh bevvies offer spir-
ited mash-ups unique to Winnipeg’s
burgeoning bar scene. The drinks
pair perfectly with Chef Frank
McCann’s menu of kleine borden
(small plates) flush with flavour
fusions that pique curiosity.
Tartare is playfully presented
with a sunny emulsifi ed egg yolk,
then fl ecked with shaved cured yolk.
Blended simply with a mixture of
onions, succulent minced beef
reigns. Spread it on the accompa-
nying slices of cheesy leek Fergasa
bread, scatter bunches of peppered
arugula atop for added bite, and
relish as each element unfolds into
a harmonious blend.
A sea of cubed raw yellowfi n tuna
bursts with fresh sweetness atop a
bed of zesty guac. Salmon roe pops
with its characteristically fi shiness
and contrasts against a peculiar
topping of spicy dehydrated kimchi,
surprising the palate. Mix each fork-
ful with a bit of the umami-rich
sauce for a truly distinctive tang.
Chef Frank’s herring is sure to
impress even those most skeptical of
Netherlands’ favourite brined fi sh.
Served on soft pumpernickel toast
with a light crème fraîche, tender fi l-
lets and pickled onion exude sweet
acidity balanced by hot jalapeños.
Bitter crisp radishes and crunchy
dried capers add texture. The open-
faced sandwich gets piled high with
vivid green sprouts, putting even
the most Instagrammable avocado
toast to shame.
Finish off the Euro-style fl avour
trip with stroopwafel, a common
Dutch pastry resembling a thin
waffl e cookie wedging sticky sweet
syrup inside. This one is crowned
with thick swirls of crème fraîche,
bananas and brittle curry cashews
that add an almost cinnamon sugar-
like profi le to the dessert.
An evening spent at Amsterdam
Tea Room evokes a can’t-put-your-
finger-on-it sentiment that has
one convinced a picturesque canal,
windmills and cheery locals riding
bicycles are waiting on the other side
of the door. It’s hard to describe. It’s
just gezellig.
Amsterdam Tea Room is open
Tue-Thu 11 am-11 pm, and Fri-
Sat 11 am-12 am.
LANGSIDE GROCERY
Neighbourhood West Broadway
Address . . . . . 164 Langside St
Entrées . . . . . . . . . . .$10-$25
Hidden behind the unassuming
facade of a neighbourhood corner
store and tucked away from the
hustle and bustle of Broadway on
a street lined with old two-storey
homes and brick apartments,
Langside Grocery beckons with its
oh so chic cocktails and alluring
dishes.
Libations are poured from
behind an aged wood-paneled bar.
Dimmed round pendants hang
from an ornate bronze ceiling, and
weathered wallpaper and tarnished
mirror bedeck the walls. One can
almost forget it's the 21st century,
if not for the music pouring from
overhead speakers and diners
snapping pics of classy glasses and
dishes set before them.
Chef Zackary Zaharia’s new
menu showcases select ingredients
in carefully pared-down mélanges.
Chilled raw pink salmon tantalizes,
its delicate fl avour kissed by spicy
harissa and herby fennel paste.
Salted almond slivers add unex-
pected playfulness.
Artichokes and asparagus, rarely
seen as stars on a menu, are pre-
sented with sophistication atop
antique-style china. Juicy roasted
artichokes nest on a bed of bright
peas and shoots, dressed lightly in
tangy buttermilk and topped with
pickled shallots for a sweet-fer-
mented bite.
Aromatic dill vinaigrette infuses
zest into a mix of crisp yet tender
asparagus spears and crunchy sour-
dough croutons. Bites of asparagus
and lightly cooked tomatoes also
brighten a generous pile of piping
hot house-made gnocchi, dusted
with shaved Parmesan.
Here, crème brûlée is perfection,
its glassy coating cracking away to
reveal velvety custard. A spoonful
of sweet orange compote laid on
top adds citrusy hits to a salted
caramel fi nish.
With a mere 30 seats, this mod-
ern-day speakeasy paints an intimate
portrait of the good ol’ days.
Langside Grocery is open Fri 4
pm-close, and Sat-Thu 5 pm-close.
LOFT 180
Neighbourhood . . . McPhillips
Address . . . . 484 McPhillips St
Phone . . . . . . . 204-957-2500
Entrées . . . . . . . . . . . $8-$12
Loft 180, the hot new second-
fl oor lounge at McPhillips Station
Casino, is raising the stakes for
casino dining. While a quality spot
to grab a drink and take a break
from gaming, this restaurant also
draws diners with Chef Jamie
Briones’ exciting, and somewhat
ciao! / jun/jul / two thousand nineteen
25