Ciao! February March 2020 CIAO_FebMar2020 | Page 29

ciao! reviews on weekdays. New grill options offer updates on diner staples that manage to feel like, well, classics. On a recent visit, a plate of “schnitzel fingers” elicited a gasp from one dinner guest upon first bite (“I didn’t think chicken fin- gers could be surprising!”). The juicy poultry, encased in a layer of breading somehow both substan- tial yet light and crispy, tasted like deli detoured through an Austrian schnitzelhaus. Oscar's deli The “dirty burger,” another recent menu addition immediately draws Neighbourhood . . . .Downtown the eye. This behemoth burger Address . . . . 175 Hargrave St . embodies that everything-but- the-kitchen-sink philosophy that’s Phone . . . . . . .204-947-0314 been so popular in burger land in recent years. Yet, if you can wrap Entrées . . . . . . . . .$7-$15 .25 your mouth around the sand- Longevity is not by default the wich—stuffed with a chuck patty, same thing as quality, so what’s the grilled onions, bacon, salami, pas- difference between “longstanding” trami, cheese, a fried egg, lettuce, and “classic”? At Oscar’s Deli, the and tomato and smeared with beet 90-year-old sandwich shop in the horseradish and hot mustard—it heart of downtown, it comes down becomes clear that the maximalism to perfect execution of well-loved belies a certain genius. The perfect tradition, supplemented by a splash marriage of rich egg yolk with a crisped-up piece of pastrami, cut of the new and fresh. Oscar’s opened its doors in 1929, with horseradish zing, is thoroughly and has been in its current location, convincing. Other sandwich options venture a clean, fuss-free, window-wrapped corner on Hargrave, for more than beyond the simple meat and mus- 40 years. The restaurant staked and tard formula to deliver unexpected claimed its spot in the city’s dining and delicious results. Grilled cheese is landscape with excellent versions of stuffed with juicy brisket and amped the Jewish deli’s bread and butter, so up with spicy banana peppers; the to speak: fresh rye (from City Rye), salmon club applies the triple-decker mouthwatering corned beef and formula to a light, bright creation pastrami, and of course, the perfect layered with smoked salmon, bacon, pickle, with just enough snap and a crunchy veg, and a lip-smacking honey dill cream cheese. little bit of pucker. Vegetarians need not be left out But Oscar’s is all about putting its own spin on tradition. That’s why of the jaw-stretching sandwich fun. you’ll find a hot-pink layer of beet A filling veggie option is tiled with horseradish sauce adding an extra green pepper, red onion, cucum- boost of prairie flavour to most bers, tomatoes and crunchy lettuce, stacked as if it were corned beef. sandwiches. There are many reasons Oscar’s It’s also why the menu has evolved in recent years as the restaurant Deli has been feeding hungry has extended from a lunch-only Winnipeggers for almost a century, spot to opening for dinner hours of which the pickles are only one. accompany for scooping up every last bite. An order of addictive eda- mame spiced with sweet curry fills a bowl big enough to feed a whole table, but don’t make the mistake of eating the tough edamame pod like my amateur guest did during this visit. Thankfully, he lives to tell the tale. Nuburger has four locations. Hours vary. Great Local Eats Comfort food favourites • Breakfast, burgers, sandwiches and more • Full menu available all day 660 Osborne St. [phone] oakwoodcafe.ca TRUNK SHOW Sunday, March 1 1 - 5 pm To register please call 204 594-0400 749 St. Mary’s Rd. 204 594-0400 [email protected] ciao! / feb/mar / two thousand twenty 27