Ciao Feb/Mar 2024 Ciao Feb/Mar 2024 | Page 23

SOLERA
Neighbourhood .... South Osborne Address ........... 725 Osborne St Phone .............. 204-219-2276 Entrées .................... $ 10- $ 35
Tucked within corner spot Tabula Rasa , behind the façade of a bookshelf decoy , you find Solera , a delightful loungey space elegantly appointed with Mediterranean touches and sumptuous seating operating as an ultra-hip speakeasy inspired bar serving imaginative drinks and food .
It ’ s a get in when you can kind of place . Though , once you ’ re in , the reward is enough to forget any wait there was to win the pleasure . Past the discreet entrance the martinis are appropriately icy , cocktails are fragrant and enchanting , and nibbles are revelatory .
A handsome bar , appointed with bartenders pouring tinctured liquids vigorously shaken into vintage glassware , is the centerpiece of the beautiful Spanish influenced décor . Behind it , backlighting evoking porcelain tiles cleverly coordinates with antique style pendant lights and textured textiles . It ’ s a space one could imagine stumbling upon walking the streets of Barcelona .
A broad and interesting one page food menu shared with TR suitable for sharing , takes diners from fresh seafood to elk tenderloin . Seafood-centric delicacies run the gamut from oysters to Mediterranean adored cockles , mussels and white anchovies on Fridays and Saturdays .
To start any day , scallop crudo practically melts in your mouth , enlivened with perky passionfruit , pickled radish , made even more savoury with ciao ! reviews
plump dollops of trout roe shining like bubbles , and pops of chili oil .
The kitchen ’ s prowess with unexpected veggies , featured in hot and cold dishes , is worth a visit alone . Sunchokes and salsify , roasted and braised , sitting atop a saffron kissed mousseline , punctuated with the sourness of pickled shallots and sweet earthiness of toasted walnuts , make a memorable first impression .
The Burrata and Brussels is best in class , a cheese that arrives mostly surrounded by tomatoes , amid shaved leaves of Brussels sprouts here mingling in buttermilk and poppyseed dressing . Pleasantly salty guanciale , sour apple , cucumber and puffed quinoa round out a texturally triumphant medley .
It ’ s a polished operation , professional yet friendly delivering under-the-radar vibes with better booze and exquisite food for today ’ s thirsty set seeking a lovely place to hide out or simply thirsty for something delicious .
BAR ACCANTO
Neighbourhood .... St . Boniface Address ............. 300 Taché Ave Phone .............. 204-505-0761 Entrées .................... $ 13- $ 29
Wine bars play on a simple one stop spot notion providing a gathering place for those who like to raise a glass and expect thrilling dishes to match their sips . Last year ’ s addition , Bar Accanto , is splendidly straddling the line between bar and restaurant and is establishing itself as the new obsession .
Its list is filled with unfamiliar varietals and natural wines sophisticated enough for snobby oenophiles but approachable for the rest of us . Look beyond the tongue-tying menu of grapes and find dishes inspired by Asian flavours , featuring flawless technique and a bit of whimsy from pedigreed chefs Emily Butcher and Colin Naylor . The stylish corner spot shares a kitchen with Nola next door , and its attention to detail proves the apple doesn ’ t fall far from the tree .
Everything is suitable to share ; for a few bites and some for several more . Friendly servers step up with helpful tips . Nosh on innovative tuna crudo , brightened with preserved and fresh oranges , pickled chilli peppers and basil as you sip a crisp white . Avocado mousse interspersed between perfectly placed pieces of fish make for a cooling and masterful mingling .
Roasted cabbage delicately dressed with black ( fermented ) vinegar and chilli oil sits beside a walnut radicchio purée . Pecorino shavings add a final layer of funky depth to another exemplary plate .
A heartier vegetarian option , celeriac filled agnolotti , is expertly textured and , defying an odd list of ingredients of black garlic , labneh , celery , caraway and nori flecked granola , combines into comforting and novel bites .
Larger protein plates are substantial and as well executed as expected . Crisp pork belly juxtaposed atop the nuttiness of pumpkin seed and hemp mole is possibly the best version ever had by this taster .
End with genmaicha mochi for dessert and a deconstructed iteration consisting of mini green tea jelly cubes , playfully hiding below fluffy clouds of pineapple sorbet arrive with pieces of sponge toffee , a final expression from some cheeky culinarians .
ciao ! / feb / mar / two thousand twenty-four 21