Ciao Dec/Jan 2023 Ciao Dec/Jan 2023 | Page 49

GATHER CRAFT KITCHEN
Neighbourhood ... Assiniboine Park Address ........ 145 The Leaf Way Phone .............. 204-927-7222 Entrées .................... $ 21- $ 65
The city ’ s largest park , attraction , family gathering site adds setting for one of the city ’ s best new restaurants to its list of draws . Gather Craft Kitchen and Bar , Assiniboine Park ’ s new fine dining room has been rewarding the community since December last year ( its opening date missed the deadline for our annual reviews ) with contemporary dishes that boast a proclivity toward ethical , sustainable ingredients .
Tucked inside the city ’ s newest architectural wonder , The Leaf , Gather is a modern example of buttoned-down sophistication . Bustling congenial servers donned in bistro-style aprons move through the open concept space with ease . Aside from stylish colourful light fixtures and tropical plants , décor is understated .
Chef Mike de Groot ’ s playful , genre-busting menus reflect the city ’ s evolving landscape of regional fare – still furiously trending - with staples from Manitoba homes prepared in new ways . As the name suggests , this locale destined for important gatherings and luckily thoughtful , global food matches the grandeur of The Leaf .
On paper , Gather ’ s partiality for hyper fresh produce isn ’ t exactly a distinctive quality , but its sheer dedication sets it apart . It helps of course that chef Mike has the Leaf ’ s expansive vegetable garden out back to procure greens from seasonally . ciao ! reviews
Grilled kale tossed into mixed greens with pickled apple slices , candied walnut , edamame , and watermelon radish dressed in fragrant apple vinaigrette combine whimsy with refinement . Bursts of sour , sweet and bitter blend on every fork . A simple carrot dish garnished with a tangle of wilted greens showcases the vegetables ’ sweet essence . The pool of buttermilk cream swirled with salsa macha it sits upon adds subtle piquancy .
Beef short rib , sweetly glazed with root beer sauce , pairs with vanilla scented celery root purée in a succulent starter . Chopped hazelnuts and pickled rutabaga strands balance the sweetness of the meat with crunchy bitter bites . A dollop of crimson beet ketchup adds tang .
Another hefty , small plate , veal and pork meatballs - eschewing the spaghetti match for sweet corn succotash on edamame hummus - are tender and exceptional . Plump cherry tomato halves and pea shoots inject freshness to a beautifully presented plate .
Mains get fresh creative recipe updates too . Boursin cheese sauce loaded with shredded confit duck and sausage coats a tower of fettucine . Delicate flakes of pecorino and chive round out an umami rich dish .
Seared scallop risotto is another savoury masterpiece . Abundant in roasted mushrooms , creamed rice hosts three jumbo seared scallops on top . Veggie battarga amplifies the medley of earthy flavours .
An upmarket shrine to the simple pleasures of prairie cuisine and Winnipeg ’ s multiculturalism , Gather Craft Kitchen and Bar offers a fresh perspective on the park and the city . Allow yourself to linger over pavlova , before taking a stroll back to civilization .
BAHAY KUBO
Neighbourhood ... Exchange District Address ............... 48 Albert St . Phone .............. 204-942-2775 Entrées .................... $ 14- $ 18
The decor is as subtle as the name , but if you ’ re a tiki enthusiast , you and your grass skirt will fit right in at Bahay Kubo in the Atrium . Thankfully , the fare here is as delicious to taste as the restaurant ’ s name is fun to say .
The Filipino word means bamboo stilt hut , a symbol of resourcefulness and ingenuity in the Philippines . Drawing on their own Filipino and part Hawaiian heritage , chefs Allan Pineda and Eejay Chua turn traditional homestyle cultural dishes on their head injecting playful twists on Southeast Asian and Pacific Rim delicacies . And considering the culinary experience pairs a virtual vacation escape to the South Pacific , it deserves all the attention . A quick scan of the room indicates the fan base for escapism is not restricted to nostalgic expats from the Pearl of the Orient .
Festive drinks , a warm aesthetic , and friendly relaxed staff all play a part in the paradisical surroundings . Tiki-esque bamboo , appropriately evocative of a hut , covers wooden mask adorned walls . Twinkling white lights framing the glass ceiling above seashell lantern shades and greenery hanging in 1970s style macrame - transform the historic Royal Albert hotel atrium into a tropical hideaway .
Here , picking your poison or elixir is a pleasure . Ube infused
ciao ! / dec / jan / two thousand twenty-three 47