Ciao! Dec/Jan 2022 Ciao! Dec/Jan 2022 | Page 46

foodsources

let ’ s pâté !

French style , Manitoba made Frères Jacques pâté prompts nostalgia and pleases the palate .
By Laurie Hughes
When it comes to food trends , “ what goes around comes around ” is a phrase that often applies when discussing nostalgic dishes rooted in family traditions . Wait long enough and an ‘ old country ’ staple will show up again , sometimes with a twist making the dish new again .
The classic French pâté , a longstanding favourite among Manitoba ’ s Francophones , is so trendy , it is not uncommon for restaurant charcuterie boards to include a version , scratch-made by their chef .
And while Larry Jacques didn ’ t have a crystal ball when he started his artisanal pâté production four years ago , the Winnipeg entrepreneur and maker of Frères Jacques pork pâté is elated about the recent popularity surge of charcuterie boards for home entertaining , and for a food he ’ s been eating his whole life .
Pâté is French for “ pie ” but refers to anything ground into a spreadable topping or molded into a terrine . Foodies often associate pâté with expensive gourmet duck liver for the rich or classic chopped chicken liver linked with old European style cooking . Both versions are comparable to liverwurst .
However , pâté is not limited to poultry blends , it can be a mixture of any finely ground meat , fish or vegetables . It is versatile , can be smooth and creamy or chunky , and fits into fancy and informal buffets equally well . Jacques contends it is best served informally on charcuterie boards alongside spreads , cheeses and breads .
Chef driven butchery culture hit a few Winnipeg restaurants more than a decade ago , but there was a notable absence of high-quality brands in food stores , and Jacques was eager to change that .
After decades in tech , and a move back to his hometown from Alberta , Larry began flirting with the idea of taking his father ’ s beloved pork-based recipe to market . It was a signature dish his dad prepared for family occasions passed down from his own father , Larry ’ s granddad . Family members and friends would rave about its unique texture – course enough to be sliced yet fine enough to spread on a cracker – and cajole him to sell it . His dad , a father of eight , didn ’ t want to pursue a risky business venture at the time , but the idea started taking hold for Larry .
After several batches , when he felt he had the recipe down , Larry took samples , and called on
44 ciao ! / dec / jan / two thousand twenty-two