Ciao Dec/Jan 2016 number one hundred one | Page 53

CLEMENTINE Neighbourhood ..... Exchange Address ...... 123 Princess St Phone ........ 204-942-9497 Entrées ............ $ 9- $ 13
From the first step down the flight of stairs that leads to Clementine ' s subterranean Exchange District space , an excitement begins to take hold . Over the buzz of chatter from filled tables , anticipation sets in . A look at the menu reveals something conspicuously absent from the city ' s dining scene , until now .
Breakfast fine dining has oft been interpreted as home cooking classics delivered on fancy china . Following the lead of chef-owned hotspots pushing boundaries , Clementine reimagines breakfast with inventive flavour combinations , melding thoughtfulness and creativity with accessibility and casualness in price and atmosphere .
The venture of Segovia progenitors Adam Donnelly and Carolina Konrad burst onto the dining scene in May , and was immediately swarmed with downtown lunchers and cool kid brunch-ers eager for morning cocktails (" Drink This , It ' ll Help ", offers the menu ) and Segovia ' s culinary daring adapted for morning fare .
Comfort food has become the buzz word du jour , and while the plenty of familiar plates are offered , care is taken to elevate approachable breakfast classics with far flung ingredients . Airy , deep-pocketed Belgian waffles are hidden under pear compote , salted dulce de leche , and whipped labneh . Turkish-style poached eggs are delivered on a bed of hummus , topped with warm chile oil and zhoug , a pesto-like Middle Eastern spice paste singing with ciao ! reviews
cilantro and long-burning spice .
Aligned with what ' s on the plate , the underground nook ' s interior seamlessly blends cozy and kooky elements . The hallmarks of industrial-chic Exchange District hip — rough-hewn wood rafters and ductwork , exposed brick — are complemented by pattern adorned walls and black and white chevron floor tiles .
Through a grid of window panes into the open kitchen , diners get an up close look at head chefs Adam Donnelly and Chris Gama leading what seems like a full brigade , frying , chopping , saucing and simmering marvelous creations . Instant signatures like eggs benedict topped with thick cut maple bacon and glossy hollandaise , or the instagram darling fried chicken toast , which piles juicy crisp chicken on a thick wedge of housemade sourdough .
Lunch cravings are answered with curry-spiked mushroom toast and spicy chorizo tostadas . Smoked Arctic char is destined to become a go-to for nearby office dwellers . A slab of the mild , flaky fish perches atop batons of crisp-fried potato cakes , with dollops of creme fraiche , horseradish , and pearly salmon roe lending bite and pop . Ringing in at a mere $ 13 , this is the most expensive item on the menu .
A range of side dishes , all priced in the single digits , make for a light breaky or a sharable addition to an indulgent brunch . Meaty fried beets tossed with cashews and a smear of jewel-yellow curry aioli begs the question : why is this favourite root veggie ever prepared any other way ? Crisp wedges of cucumber pair with a nutty tahini sauce and a swirl of salty-sweet tomato caramel for acidity . In dish after dish it is clear that at Clementine , breakfast is the most important meal of the day .
Clementine is open Mon-Fri 7 am-3 pm , Sat-Sun 8 am-4 pm .
BLIND TIGER KITCHEN + BAR Neighbourhood . South Osborne Address ...... 725 Osborne St Phone ........ 204-691-9939 Entrées ........... $ 24- $ 39
At the time of Prohibition and other restrictive liquor laws , many illegal establishments hid dining rooms and bars behind front businesses , often exhibits of natural wonders or animal curiosities , earning the nickname " blind tigers ".
South Osborne ' s Blind Tiger Kitchen + Bar takes up this moniker with tongue in cheek , presenting an earnest fondness for the past with a sleekly modern twist .
Antique chic décor adorns exposed brick walls , from wrought iron farming implements to an abstract art piece made from a deconstructed piano . Paired with slick dark tones , leather , and a gleaming backlit bar , the space easily blends old and new .
There is food to match , flowing steadily from an open kitchen . Elegance on the plate plays well with the convivial atmosphere , backdropped by lively chatter and the fragrant hisses of sautéing and simmering . Excitement for a dining hub along the South Osborne strip keeps the room hopping with neighbourhood diners and food lovers from across the city .
The menu betrays a fondness for the classic sauces , proteins , and techniques of classic French cooking , with dishes and components that have fallen out of favour in restaurant kitchens revived in clever new applications .
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